dating a princess coat and id’ing fur type of collar - coat was sold at Franklin Simon

Jennifer Kietzman

Jennifer Kietzman

Registered Guest
Hi everyone,

I’ve attached photographs of a green wool princess coat that was sold at Franklin Simon, the New York, NY department store. I think it dates from the 1950s, but I’m writing to ask for your help in nailing a date down. I’m also hoping to identify the type of fur used for the collar. The coat is 47.5 inches long, and there are no labels, other than the Franklin Simon label. It is lined in satin and has a thick, quilted inter-lining. In addition to the buttons, there is also a green wool fabric loop and interior satin ties at the waist to hold the coat closed.

Many thanks for your help!

green coat 1 (1).JPG green coat 1 (2).JPG green coat 1 (3).JPG green coat 1 (4).JPG green coat fur 1.JPG green coat fur 2.JPG
 
poppysvintageclothing said:
Lovely coat...it looks early 50s to me. As far as the fur goes, hopefully Caryn will come in to help you out. To me it looks like muskrat but I don't know for sure.
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Thanks, Mary Jane! The person from whom I bought the coat dated it to the 30s, but it definitely didn't read as 30s to me. I'm glad to have the confirmation. I'm at a loss as to the fur - it's striped, with alternating bands of short and long hair (is it trimmed like this, I wonder?), as well as light and dark.
 
Hi there, I have just seen this but it looks like Mary Jane was already on it. The fur is muskrat. The shorter fur is actually underfur that once had longer guardhair over the top that protected it. The guardhair wearing or breaking off at the ends of muskrat fur is common.
I am kind of on the fence with dating. I am thinking that the coat might date to the late 40s however it's only a few years difference so it could be early 50s as well.
I love it by the way. Green is my favorite color next to purple which is my top favorite.
 
Furwise said:
Hi there, I have just seen this but it looks like Mary Jane was already on it. The fur is muskrat. The shorter fur is actually underfur that once had longer guardhair over the top that protected it. The guardhair wearing or breaking off at the ends of muskrat fur is common.
I am kind of on the fence with dating. I am thinking that the coat might date to the late 40s however it's only a few years difference so it could be early 50s as well.
I love it by the way. Green is my favorite color next to purple which is my top favorite.
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Kudos to both you and Mary Jane on fur ID! Thank you! Green, and particularly this dark green, is one of my favorites, too. If only this fit me (thought it would), I'd keep it; it's in impeccable condition, minus two small splits to the collar. Alas. Thanks again, Caryn. I'm most appreciative.
 
You see these styles in the late '40s to the early '50s - I generally associate the pointed turned back cuff as being from this time too, but the large collar puts it into the '50s I think. If you had a look at the shoulder line it would help, the '40s tended to have strong, square shoulders which became more rounder into the '50s.

Lovely coat, I don't see '30s either. You do see princess lines in the '30s but the lines are softer.
 
Circa Vintage said:
You see these styles in the late '40s to the early '50s - I generally associate the pointed turned back cuff as being from this time too, but the large collar puts it into the '50s I think. If you had a look at the shoulder line it would help, the '40s tended to have strong, square shoulders which became more rounder into the '50s.

Lovely coat, I don't see '30s either. You do see princess lines in the '30s but the lines are softer.
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Hi, Nicole! Thank you for your thoughts. The shoulders are definitely squared off (ie the coat has a definite shoulder line, and the sleeves aren't dolman or raglan), but there's no padding in the shoulders. Not sure where that leaves us, but I thought I'd mention. Thanks, again!
 
I say early 50s. I have an early 50s winter coat that was sold to me as 40s (now what's it about dating those coats :hysterical:) - mine's a bit different in the collar, the buttoning, but it has that same silhouette, the wide sleeves and cuffs...
 
It is gorgeous Mary!

Ditto on pretty much all of what Nicole said. The wider collar and shape of it too was really common in the 50s. The shoulders looked broad and squared to me which was what made me think it was a cusper and although the sleeves are not tapered they do not really look wide to me either.
I think those shoulders may have batting with a combination of the construction that offers that squared look.
With that said I still think this could be a cusper and could go either way.
 
Furwise said:
It is gorgeous Mary!

Ditto on pretty much all of what Nicole said. The wider collar and shape of it too was really common in the 50s. The shoulders looked broad and squared to me which was what made me think it was a cusper and although the sleeves are not tapered they do not really look wide to me either.
I think those shoulders may have batting with a combination of the construction that offers that squared look.
With that said I still think this could be a cusper and could go either way.
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Hi Caryn,

Thanks so much for your thoughts! Just in case you're interested, I attached a picture of what I called the quilted interlining - it's rather thick; between the outer layer and the satin lining, it's definitely stuffed with something, though I'm not sure what. I'm imagining that the added oomph of this might add to the squared-off look you're seeing? Also, I just have to say, look at that lovely stitch work attaching the satin lining to the interlining! So pretty.
 

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