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Dating Dior silk dress

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion - Ask Questions Get Answers' started by kittenteethvintage, Aug 29, 2020.

  1. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    I picked up a Dior about a year ago but wasn't able to find too much info about it so it got buried in the studio... :/ Cut to now- I'm ready to get it cleaned and prepped for sale but am still at a loss as too what year/season/etc it may be. See below for pics. I wasn't sure how the sash part was supposed to be worn either- anyone know?

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  2. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    The tag looks most similar to the one on the VFG label resource dated late 40s/early 50s (shown below) but I was hoping someone here might have a little more info to maybe pin it down. This really does not feel late 40s to me, but I could see 50's. Anyone know how long this label may have been used?
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    Attached Files:

  3. northstarvintage

    northstarvintage Administrator Staff Member

    WOW. What a beauty!

    I'm seeing 50s but someone here can probably narrow it down even further.

    I can see why you'd be reluctant to get rid of it!
     
    kittenteethvintage likes this.
  4. Jonathan

    Jonathan VFG Member

    Christian Dior New York was around from 1948 until 1963(ish). This looks middly-late 50s to me 1956-58ish because of the straight skirt with that length and the hip pleats at the front.
     
  5. yumyumvintage

    yumyumvintage VFG Member

    the saks label is their 1960's one..... I would think early 60's
     
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  6. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    Thank you! This really helps pin it down. I'll call it late 50's/early 60's unless I ever find a more exact date. :)
     
  7. Linn

    Linn Super Moderator Staff Member VFG Past President

    I agree with Jonathan - '50s.
     
  8. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix VFG Member

    My first thought was very late 1950s, 1958-1959. It is a wonderful dress.
     
  9. MagsRags

    MagsRags VFG President Staff Member

    Could the sash wrap around the back and end up at the waist? I would be looking for any hints of a former fastener at the left waist sideseam.
     
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  10. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    I don't see any kind of fastener location, etc but when I get it back on the mannequin I'll see if it could possibly work that way.
     
  11. Henry Wilkinson

    Henry Wilkinson VFG Member

    Gorgeous dress! And such beautiful construction too. I agree with Barbara - this feels reminiscent of Dior during Yves Saint Laurent's tenure as designer. This would fit in well with his collections for 1958.
     
  12. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

    Dior NY was high end ready-to-wear. There were several companies like Mainbocher, Hattie Carnegie, etc. The construction was almost couture, but they were not bespoke--made for individual clients.

    Mme Marguerite was in charge of Dior NY. I'm not sure what that meant--perhaps that selected the designs from the couture collection that could be manufactured.
    Henry, Marika Genty went with me when I interviewed Mme Marguerite; she might have some answers. Marika left Dior and went to Chanel. Because of my relationship with Chanel, I can't contact Marika. I have an address.
     
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  13. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    Thank you so much for the additional info regarding Dior NY. I really appreciate the insight that you all are able to provide on this!
     
  14. Jonathan

    Jonathan VFG Member

    I assume it worked the same in NY as it did in Canada. The head seamstress in charge of the Canadian workrooms was French and appointed by Dior. The designs came from Paris and were often just modified versions of Paris couture and boutique designs. Dior NY began designing its own lines in 1961 - In 1963 Gaston Berthelot was appointed to head Dior NY - he did the designing in New York for Dior NY.
     
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  15. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Would it be possible to drape the long piece over the shoulder?



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  16. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing VFG Member Staff Member VFG Past President

  17. kittenteethvintage

    kittenteethvintage VFG Member

    I'm not sure it would look right, it seems to be designed to have bow sort of detail at the bust. I need to get it back on the mannequin to confirm though. Maybe you're onto something! :)
     
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  18. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

  19. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

  20. Jonathan

    Jonathan VFG Member

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