Design detail on an antique Cravenette rain coat

C

Coralroot

Registered Guest
This antique Cravenette rain coat from Stoughton Rubber Co. has a design feature that I'm unfamiliar with, and I'm hoping someone can provide the name and purpose for this. The skirt back is pleated with buttons across the top and, at about mid hip, there are two pocket-like openings (one on each side). Would this have something to do with a bustle or what are your thoughts? Also, I believe this coat dates to the early 1900s, but please correct this if you know differently.

Thank you for your help!
edw rain side back.jpg
edw rain bustle back .jpg
edw rain label stamp.jpg
 
Well that is a great coat. Really great! I wonder about the back slits too. Perhaps a way to assist in drying out the back of the raincoat which is pleated and would not dry nearly as fast as the rest of the coat? Some sort of pole would slide through and hang...if that is making sense. Or a place to put your umbrella when a stand was not available (not likely, I know, but my mind is going to a strange place on this one). Hmmmmm.....
 
Thank you all! I appreciate your narrowing down the time period. I think Barbara's idea of it being a drying aid makes sense and the placement is just right for that, though I like the umbrella keeper theory much better. ha! There is a great illustration in there somewhere - an Edwardian woman in her protruding umbrella coat.
 
Might dresses of this period have had large bows on the back? The loops could have gone through the slits...
 
Thanks for your reply, Melanie. I also thought it might be used to incorporate a design element of what was worn underneath, but then again you'd end up with a wet dress. It seems odd to have such large openings in a coat that is intended to keep you dry (though there are flaps to help prevent water coming in). I've not been able to find any other examples or descriptions of this in old advertisements or my books, so I'm going with Barbara's pleat drying theory for now. Considering the fullness and fabric weight, I think it makes good sense.

Thanks again for all your help, and if anyone comes across another example of this please share!
 
Is it rubber lined? I looked them up and found:
1877 - Stoughton Factory of the American Rubber Co. established. They produced rubber clothing, hospital sheeting, sundries, top coats and gabardines. The rubber cloth was made at the mill in Stoughton, and the garments were made up in workrooms in Boston originally.
The American Rubber Co. is still in existence.
I think the coat is a bit earlier than 1910 - the tailoring around the buttocks is earlier - most raincoats by 1910 are more shapeless - I would go with more c. 1904-05. However, the gaps are so you can reach into the pocket in the back of your skirt. Many walking dresses had a secret pocket in the folds of the skirt - it was a safer way to keep your valuables than a purse. I have a couple of skirts from that period with the pocket in the seam.
 
Thanks so much, Jonathan! I had seen the info on the Stoughton Factory and a few early Cravenette raincoat ads, but didn't find anything referencing the back opening, so I really appreciate your clarifying that for me. I'll have to research secret skirt pockets so I can better imagine this in action. Thanks for your help with dating as well. I was thinking that period initially due to the shape of the back, but the clean lines of the front also lent itself to a later date, so I was unsure. Thanks again!

Oh, and the coat is unlined. Also the fabric has a mostly uniform texture inside and out.
 
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