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Dresses from Paris - Labels - Couture?

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion - Ask Questions Get Answers' started by Lady Rockwell, Jan 21, 2018.

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  1. Lady Rockwell

    Lady Rockwell Registered Guest

    Hi there,

    I have been searching for answers about these labels and trying to figure out where they came from exactly and who designed them. I am not familiar with these labels, and the construction is unique in its own.

    While both of these dresses came from an estate sale, I had to jump on getting them and some other brands like Lillie Ann before someone else did, spending over $280 on over 10 pieces was a steal to me.
    The lady who was the original owner of these dresses was a model in Paris in the 1940s/1950s. I couldn’t pass on these dresses.
    I don’t know if I will resell these after a while, they’re too lovely.
    But I’ve looked over and over and the only lead I have on the shirtwaist dress leads me to possibly be related to Dior, but I honestly do not know, with the label “selection succes de Boussac layer comme soie ou laine”
    The blue floral dress with the sheer outer shell fabric is absolutely stunning and has two layers of fabric for the lining, one being tulle and the other like a silk acetate fabric. Label “La Palliere 144.Champs.Elysees. Paris”. This dress says couture more than the other.
    Both dresses are hand sewn stitching and machine stitching, but no mass production indications. Blue floral dress is fully lined, skirt part is double lined, stated above in paragraph. Green floral dress is only lined in the skirt, with a linen type feel.

    The estate sale company said they were both couture, I have a feeling they’re not as couture as the estate sale company thought.

    Any help and information is greatly appreciated! And please, feel free if anyone has information, please use these photos and labels for the label resource.

    Sorry for a ton of photos, I figured if I can show more details, it might help narrow down specifics.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
    Lady Rockwell, Jan 21, 2018
    #1
  2. Midge

    Midge Super Moderator Staff Member

    Beautiful dresses! I had a quick nose around...
    The dress with the Boussac label looks early 60s to me. From what I've found, Marcel Boussac, who financed Dior, was a French entrepreneur with his fingers in many pies. One of his businesses was a textile company called Boussac - I found a bit on it's history here on this French blog:
    Code:
    http://www.mamzelleswing.com/les-tissus-boussac-marcel-boussac/
    Here's also a 1950s Boussac fabric ad:
    Code:
    https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/785596728719682133/
    The font in this ad and in the one on the blog seems to be the same as used on the Boussac label in your dress. The dress looks like it was probably made by a seamstress - it looks like that to me. But maybe if you bought these fabrics as a seamstress, the company provided labels to use in the garments, also like a care label. Because your label also says "Laver comme soie ou laine" - wash like silk or wool. It seems this was a well-known and prestigious company, so they would want people to know that what they had made, say by a seamstress, was made from their fabric.

    As for the other dress - agree, probably seamstress made. I think the name on the label is "La Vallière" though.
     
    Midge, Jan 21, 2018
    #2
  3. Lady Rockwell

    Lady Rockwell Registered Guest

    Thank you!
    Yes, all I could find was information on Boussac and his textile business, and that he was the financial backing for Dior in the 1940's. The dress does look like the late 50s early 60s to me too.
    And yes, I was thinking La Valliere too, but the estate sale folks had Palliere on their tag, it looks like it could be either, lol.
    But they're so beautiful and just well made, I'm not sure if I should let them go yet! :)
    I'll keep researching more, thanks for the links! I've been looking at a computer screen since yesterday trying to dig up what I could, I also posted in a facebook group for dating vintage/info, I'll probably post in the comments if someone knows more.

    Thanks again
    -Lori
     
    Lady Rockwell, Jan 21, 2018
    #3
  4. Linn

    Linn Super Moderator Staff Member VFG Past President

    I see Pallière on the label. I am an interior designer and am familiar with Boussac as a fabric house. I just did a search and they are still in business; carried by Pierre Frey. I agree with dating the dresses to the late 1950s or early 1960s -but I actually see late 1950s a bit more in the prints.

    You did very well at the sale - lovely dresses.
     
    Linn, Jan 21, 2018
    #4
  5. Circa Vintage Clothing

    Circa Vintage Clothing Alumni

    Agree with late '50s for both dresses, they're lovely and beautifully hand finished.
     
    Circa Vintage Clothing, Jan 23, 2018
    #5

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