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Fabric Friday: Bouclé

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Workshops - specialty vintage topics' started by denisebrain, Dec 31, 2021.

  1. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Baby, it's cold outside (19ºF/-7ºC in Spokane at this moment freezing cold emoti), time for a cozy fabric like bouclé, with its small loops that insulate, as well as decorate.


    Characterized by loops on one or both sides, bouclé comes from the French word for “buckled,” “ringed” or “curled.” Some versions of the fabric combine looped sections with plain; others are looped all over. Most commonly wool—with mohair a fine choice for this treatment—bouclé may also be acrylic or other fibers. It may be woven or knitted.

    Uses: Coats, suits, sweaters

    See also:
    Bouclette
    Poodle cloth
    Ratiné
    Terry cloth

    Woven wool and mohair bouclé from a 1960s suit
    _big_vintagefashion-new_85471.jpg

    Wool knit bouclé from a 1950s skirt suit
    _big_vintagefashion-new_69481.jpg

    Woven wool bouclé with plain yarns intermixed
    _big_vintagefashion-new_90009.jpg


    Bouclette is the diminutive of bouclé (French for “buckled,” “ringed,” or “curled”) and features very small loops over the surface of the fabric. As with bouclé, it is usually made of wool, and its uses are similar. I haven't seen the name bouclette applied to a knit.

    This is a woven wool bouclette
    _big_vintagefashion-new_13960.jpg



    This is a 1960s wool bouclé set I have in my shop. The coat has thicker and bigger loops than the dress, but I'd still call them both bouclé.
    Screen Shot 2021-12-31 at 12.20.40 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2021-12-31 at 12.21.09 PM.png

    Knit bouclé was used a lot for sweater suits from the late 1940s into the 1960s. Certain companies seemed to specialize in these suits. (Kimberly, Snyderknit and Brittany Club are some I remember at this moment.)

    Here's one of those sweater suits
    creamsweatersuitdar1.JPG

    What's really great about the bouclé texture is that you can mend it invisibly without too much effort. Plus, they are comfortable, being knit.
    creamsweatersuitdar3.JPG

    Any questions, doubts or thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2021
  2. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

    Maggie, thanks for the info and great photos.
     
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  3. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    I have always thought that this is the only way bouclé could look.

    Didn’t realize or associate the other plain wool knits as bouclé at all. Aren’t a lot of knits “loopy” in a way? Are there specific style/ shape loops that make it a bouclé? I am especially struggling to see it with your last example.
     
  4. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    As a knitter, I may be able to help with this. All knits are made of interlocking loops, but with bouclé, the yarn itself is loopy - so it has loops before it's knit, which then become part of the fabric.

    Here's some boucle yarn - hopefully you can see the little loops.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the same yarn, knit up into fabric. In this case, the loops are so dense, you can't even see the knitted stitches.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    (my pics, over on ravelry)

    I think Maggie's lovely cream sweater, has fewer and smaller loops, so the effect is more subtle, and you'd need a close up of the fabric to see it. And on the red knit, the loops are quite infrequent, so you see the knitted stitches, and just occasionally a loop.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
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  5. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

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  6. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    Thanks Ruth! That makes sense. That’s probably why I always associated bouclé with the fuzzy kind where the red one above looked like a regular knit.
     
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  7. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Wow, those are great illustrations of bouclé yarn Ruth, thank you! The 50s bouclé knit sweater suits are really quite subtle by comparison. pinksweatersuit50s5.JPG

    I really should add a more loopy bouclé knit to the Fabric Resource.
     
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  8. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    I also had to look closely at the red example, to be able to say, yes that is a boucle - it has occasional large curls.

    It's a vintage yarn as it happens - 1970s.

    You are welcome to any of my photos if they are appropriate. Here's another, same vintage 1970s yarn, different colourway.
    [​IMG]

    There was a quite a trend for boucle hand knitting in the 1970s.
     
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  9. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Here are some ads for those late-1940s to 1950s bouclé wool knit skirt suits.
    1957
    1957.png
    1954
    1954.png
    1957
    Screen Shot 2022-01-01 at 10.17.13 AM.png
     
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  10. Retro Ruth

    Retro Ruth VFG Member Staff Member

    Here's a 1970s knitting pattern for the yarn I show above.

    Patons1459.jpg
     
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