Hat Era ID

Marie Wood

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Hello!
Need help identifying the era of this Bollman hat. All help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Hello! I need help identifying the era of this Bollman hat. All assistance is greatly appreciated!
 

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Hard to say exactly. It is such a classic style, that dating it is best done with the hat in hand. A few clues are the lack of inner ribbon (which was mentioned above), and the way it appears to be constructed. Is the ribbon grosgrain, and is it sewn to or glued to the hat? Is the hat made in all 1 piece of felt or 2?

Definitely contemporary, 1990s or later.
 
Hello! Thanks for your response. The hat is all one piece and the ribbon is grosgrain and it’s glued at the back.
 
That is an interesting question. I am not sure there was an exact date when this practice began for men's hats, but I would imagine the mid to late 19th century depending on the style of hat. As for women's hats, the inner "sweatband" ribbon (called a headsize ribbon in lady's hats) was not used until right about 1930. Before that the hat would have a lining of some sort. Linings would continue to be used in some womens hats after 1930 of course. But the ribbon was a new addition in 1930.
 
Thanks so much for the explanation. I’ve seen many Bollman ladies felt hats with no headsize ribbon; it’s just felt. Not sure the headsize ribbon is a good era indicator for ladies Bollman hats.
 
Not sure the headsize ribbon is a good era indicator for ladies Bollman hats.

Actually, it is. Bollman is much like other hat makers manufacturing mass produced hats. Over time, they used less and less of the materials, trims and techniques that were used previously. It was simply a cost saving measure, as hats fell from popularity more and more since the late 1950s. To stay in business, hat makers cut corners, even the big names and top designers. Bollman had several tiers/levels of hats, some were higher priced and some low priced. The Bollman wool of your hat was in the lowest price range, it was steam pressed made on a metal mold all in 1 piece and was made by the tens of thousands. While Bollman would trim some of their own hats, most were sold as "blanks" to other hat makers and hat companies who would then trim them up and put their own labels on the hats. The "Bollman" stamp on the wool would usually remain in place. By the time the 2000s came around, even the inner headsize ribbon was abandoned and left off. Bollman hats made prior to the 1990s would have the headsize ribbon in place, generally, and would usually also made in 2 pieces.

So, yes, it is a very good clue for dating not only Bollman but other hats as well.

Also, once a hat has the outer ribbon headband around the crown, it is generally considered "finished" unless trims were to be added.
 
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How does the inner headsize ribbon work for straw hats? Is it called the same for men’s hats too? I’ve attached images of a Texace straw hat. The band on this one is stretchy. I’ve researched this company and most recently before they closed, they manufactured golf hats. This one does not look like a modern golf hat.
 

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How does the inner headsize ribbon work for straw hats? Is it called the same for men’s hats too?

It does not really matter what the hat is made of. Straw, felt, fabric, makes no difference in ladies hats as far as lining versus inner ribbon. Some antique Victorian and Edwardian ladies summer straw hats might have a partial lining or an extra wide satin or cotton banding in place of a liner, around the inside brim, to help keep the head cool. Most of them would have linings however.

Yes, as Bette has said, your hat is a mans hat and is very contemporary looking, could even be fairly new or a few years old.

In answer to your other question, mens hats have sweatbands, ladies hats have head size ribbons. They are the same thing really, just called different names. The term "sweat" was considered crude and unfeminine for a lady. Reminds me of the old joke...

"Horses sweat, Men perspire, and ladies glow. And right now I am glowing like a horse!":)
 
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