Hat From England Edwardian 30's 40's ?

Hat From England Edwardian 30\'s 40\'s ?

I have this gorgeous vintage hat that I'm very confused about. The styling says 30's or 40's to me but the way it is made is much earlier. It has the drawstring lining that was common in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Was this kind of lining used later in the U.K.? Label says J. Jones Exclusive Millinery, Manchester. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Hi,

I'd say it is late 1930s to 1940's time period. The lining is sort of similar to Edwardian linings, but really it is very different in its construction and look. Even though linings pretty much went out of fashion after 1930 except for couture hats (of course there are exceptions), some milliners would still put them in their hats as a sign of a better made hat, or the milliner would use "left over" liners from if he/she still had them on hand or found an old stash of them. Also, a milliner could buy pre-made liners and stamp them with her name or adjust the construction.

Ah...the good old days!

Also, the hat may be a redone hat, altered in style from an older hat. It sort of looks "re made" to me but I could be wrong.

B

 

I'm interested Barbara to know why you think this hat may have been re-made? I see this hat as being more early 1940's. It's a really good shape. Is the maker's name repeated on the lining?

 

Looking at it I don't think it's a remake. Everything screams 30's 40's except for that lining! Yes the maker's name is stamped on the lining twice. I'm thinking though that it must be pre 1940 because England entered the war that year. Or were they still making hats for awhile?

 

I wonder if Barbara is looking at the brim: the way it's all gathered at the front doesn't look right. I've seen pleated brims, but gathering like this suggests it was a larger brim that's been gathered into a smaller crown. Actually I can't think of a good reason for why it would look like that, but a professionally made hat would be neater and more, well, more professional.

It was common to remodel hats as styles changed, as they were expensive. It's also common for costumers to take an old hat and reshape or redecorate for a performance. I've done it myself a few times.

Nicole

 

Yeah I see what you mean Nicole. I looked at it closer and it doesn't appear to be altered though. Maybe they just wanted that effect? :clueless:

 

The lining is what doesn't look right to me. The way it was put in is wrong, over the inner sweat band - it should be underneath that littler grosgrain ribbon. It looks like it was sewing machine sewn to fit, then basted in. I have never seen a hat where the maker's name was printed on the lining twice. Whether someone added the lining later to make the hat warmer, or fit better, or whatever, its the lining I would discount as an alteration or addition.

 

Come to think of it, the vast majority of 30s or 40s Felt hats I have seen weren't lined at all - just the ribbon band.

I wonder if the owner didn't have the lining added to slide more easily over her hair.

Hollis

 

Hi,

I took a second look, and that lining is definitely strange and not original to the hat. I did not see the grosgrain/petersham headsize ribbon under the red lining (thanks for seeing that Jonathan). That says the red liner was added on later, making the hat "redone" as I mentioned. That is a very weird looking lining, ...and I think there are FOUR gold stampings of the name, as a matter of fact I think it may be sewn up from cut up rows of older liners or bandings, and there is all that extra seaming and machine stitches. Maybe a WWII re-do all round on this hat. The ostrich puffs may be added also, but changing trims is seen often on WWII hats, especially from England.

The wrinkle gather in the front also looks odd to me, and as Nicole said it is not a professional looking sewing job from a millinery standpoint, but of course it may be original to the design.

Maybe this red lining was added for warmth, or to hide some flaw underneath, and they used what they had....scraps or left over liners, etc.

It is still a very cute hat.

B

 

You are right Barbara! I didn't even notice that the name was stamped four times. I looked under the lining and didn't really see any flaws except for more less than professional stitching. So is the consensus that this is a War era make do hat?