As you didn't note a hard black bead, I think we can rule out poly in favor of silk.
I remember the shop on Sunset Blvd. I never went in, as I knew I couldn't afford anything in there.
Her version of "lettuce" is unlike most, as very gentle. I will get a close-up of the merrow edege. Generally, that finiish is done with knits, but not the case with HH.