Help dating and cleaning: unlabeled, early 20th C. loose cut Dress, sewn in back snap-eye belt

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion Q & A' started by cloudsofviolet, Jul 27, 2020.

  1. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    20200803_192504.jpg 20200803_192623.jpg 20200803_194211.jpg 20200803_192244.jpg 20200727_180146.jpg 20200727_180205.jpg 20200727_180339.jpg 20200727_180404.jpg 20200727_180438.jpg 20200727_180635.jpg 20200727_180853.jpg Hi! I found this last year She will remain in my personal collection She's been sitting in my closet since then.

    I thought she was homemade 1920s but looking on vintage dancer.com I found some other dresses that led me to believe she might be edwardian or later like 30s.

    She measures 43" long. The waist belt cinches her in quite a bit. So that's why I am rethinking as well. She has hand over cast seams? I looked at just a a section or 2 of seams, so she might not be finished all the way through.

    I think she is rayon crepe. just a based on pictures and the panel is silk satin, again pictures.

    Can anyone identify the fabric or era? Would you recommend trying to clean or remove the crusted on thing and the what looks like underarm residue?
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    Thank!!!

    20200727_180146.jpg 20200727_180205.jpg View attachment 121701 20200727_180339.jpg View attachment 121703 20200727_180404.jpg View attachment 121705 20200727_180438.jpg View attachment 121707 20200727_180635.jpg View attachment 121709 View attachment 121710 View attachment 121711 20200727_180853.jpg View attachment 121713 View attachment 121714 View attachment 121715 View attachment 121716
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
  2. Midge

    Midge Trade Member

    It looks interesting, but I find the one photo of the whole dress a bit hard to see - could you please post a clear photo of the full dress with the belt?
     
  3. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix Trade Member

    Yes, please post at least 1 or 2 more photos of the entire dress, and maybe the back and the armhole area, with the dress laid flat and the arms outstretched. What is on the top, beading or?
     
  4. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    Posted to the original post! with pics of the armhole area all the way. Thank you! Meant to get to this earlier but organizing got in the way ;(
    On the top is knotting, done with what looks like cotton thread (haven't tested, will probably) The armhole top has an additional seam, and the bottom on the back only, has a very small triangular "gusset". Not sure if that's the right term.
    It doesn't look like the ones from more recent garments? Any other types of pics I should post?

    Sorry for the weird pics before, I have removed some of them
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
  5. Midge

    Midge Trade Member

  6. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix Trade Member

    I am thinking either WWI era, or early - mid 1930s. If it was on a dress form it would help. Where does the belt sit on the average body?
     
  7. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    Yes, it's right at the shoulder. The shadow's end is where it ends (1st photo attached). I *think* it's like a shoulder pad or a shaper but is sewn with folded up canvas (3rd photo attached). It's affixed by the second from top line right to the armhole (last photo attached). (I have not unstitched it but I don't feel any stuffing of any kind in there.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Acting President Staff Member

    The fabric looks like rayon crepe faille to me. It's an unusual dress, but I would say 1930s.
     
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  9. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    On my mannequin, It seems to hit at the narrowest part of the waist or pretty pretty close to it. Only thing is , I could not get to clasp on my mannequin, it is that small with the waist done up.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix Trade Member

    Now it is looking 1930s.
     
  11. Midge

    Midge Trade Member

  12. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    Thank you! Should I be unnecessarily worried about water rings were I to wash? Any idea on provenance?
     
  13. cloudsofviolet

    cloudsofviolet Registered Guest

    Thank you!
     
  14. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Acting President Staff Member

    I wouldn't wash this because of the tendency for crepe twist yarns to shrink—I would take it to a trustworthy dry cleaner. But if you are set on trying to wash it, test the potential for dye bleeding and shrinking by moistening a small spot in an inconspicuous place on the dress, using the water temperature (cool) and soap/detergent you are planning to wash it in. Dab the spot with a light towel and see if the dye has transferred to your towel at all (dye bleed). Allow the spot to dry and look for puckering—that will let you know if the fabric is inclined to shrink.

    On provenance, nothing there that I can see to help with that. To sleuth you need some sort of a hint: A label, the place from which the dress came, a similar dress online with more specifics—something.
     
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