Help Dating/ Fur IDentification (1990s?) D'Arcy Moses Fur Coat

[laurenm]

Hi Everyone, I'm thinking 1990s from what I've read so far. Originally thought it was much newer but now thinking 90s? Any thoughts?

Also is this sheared and non sheared and dyed beaver?

Interesting bio/story on this Canadian designer!
lauren

 

[furwise]

Hi, 80s/90s and it is dyed beaver but I can’t see any areas that are sheared.

 

[laurenm]

Thanks Karen, sorry the photos aren't the greatest. There are areas of what I'm assuming are sheared bordering the star shape and the other inserts.

 

[furwise]

Does the fur feel short like a buzz cut?

 

[Jonathan]

D'Arcy Moses established his label in 1991 and closed it around 2004/05. His label was well received at first and he got a lot of press 1992/93. I think he did the fur coats 93/94ish, but after that he began to slip down in popularity. He would often win awards for design, but his collections became more and more unsaleable. He had a disastrous collection in 97 (I think it was) and never really recovered. He rebooted his designing career a few years ago, but he now concentrates on more traditional style indigenous clothes.

 

[furwise]

Wow, that’s really interesting Jonathan. I wasn’t familiar with D’Arcy Moses at all.

In November of ‘91 he was mentioned in an article as being a new star designer who put considerable imagination into his fur coat collection.

It was also mentioned in the article that he won an award for menswear earlier in the year too.

 

[Jonathan]

Great detective work Caryn! I have never read any reference to his fur collection dating before 93 or 94 - I knew he used fur before, but as trims, not as full coats. Thanks for the update (where is it from - I would love the reference).
The description even sounds like the coat lauren has. That label was created in 1991, so maybe its from his first collection. Moses came out of the Toronto Fashion Incubator, which is a place for young designers to work at very reasonable rents while they build their reputation and label.

 

[laurenm]

Yes Caryn, soft and short. all around the 'pieced' (?) decorative star figure and around other stars. There's an interesting article here: https://www.uphere.ca/articles/darcy-moses-big-bet

 

[laurenm]

Oh I see what Jonathan is saying....the Tree of Life, the 'star' thing I keep referring looks like a tree when the coat drapes?

 

[furwise]

Great detective work Caryn! I have never read any reference to his fur collection dating before 93 or 94 - I knew he used fur before, but as trims, not as full coats. Thanks for the update (where is it from - I would love the reference).
The description even sounds like the coat lauren has. That label was created in 1991, so maybe its from his first collection. Moses came out of the Toronto Fashion Incubator, which is a place for young designers to work at very reasonable rents while they build their reputation and label.

The article was in the Ottawa Citizen November 14th, 1991.
If you’d like I can email you an image of the article I think. I’m uncertain how large the entire page will appear though.

Here’s one of the coats that was mentioned. It was said to have a sheared muskrat lining with the sun on it and fox trim. It was the only coat shown -

That does look like a cedar tree on the back of yours Lauren when the coat is hanging naturally. This one is listed on eBay, has the same label, and has what looks like cedar trees on it too.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323772865183

 

[D’Arcy Moses]

Hello.

This is D’Arcy Moses.

The image on the back of this Coat was a sort of ‘Star-burst’.

It was all about Energy.

I was young, though I cannot recall having a disastrous collection in ‘97.

Hmmm, Life. As a designer. Still at it and remember this coat fondly.

Starts with a flat pattern, I remember drawing out this design on the pattern. Clearly.

Still at it in the garment business. I will not give up.

If interested, please check out my Facebook page

[email protected]

Onward

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

So nice to hear from you D'Arcy. Some lovely items on your facebook page.

 

[laurenm]

Thanks for making contact!

 

[bycinbyhand]

Wow, that’s really interesting Jonathan. I wasn’t familiar with D’Arcy Moses at all.

In November of ‘91 he was mentioned in an article as being a new star designer who put considerable imagination into his fur coat collection.

It was also mentioned in the article that he won an award for menswear earlier in the year too.

View attachment 112871

Peaceful Vintage? I like!

 

[Jonathan]

Hello.

This is D’Arcy Moses.

The image on the back of this Coat was a sort of ‘Star-burst’.

It was all about Energy.

I was young, though I cannot recall having a disastrous collection in ‘97.

Hmmm, Life. As a designer. Still at it and remember this coat fondly.

Starts with a flat pattern, I remember drawing out this design on the pattern. Clearly.

Still at it in the garment business. I will not give up.

If interested, please check out my Facebook page

[email protected]

Onward

Sorry about the 'disastrous' comment. I was told you had a collection that Holt Renfrew didn't sell anything from and I thought that was 97. We have a piece from that collection in the museum - it's a green wool jersey shirt trimmed with bone buttons and worn with leggings with a breech cloth panel. It's a great piece. I should send you some pics of what we have in the collection - perhaps you can tell me more! Big fan of your work btw.

 

[D’Arcy Moses]

Sorry about the 'disastrous' comment. I was told you had a collection that Holt Renfrew didn't sell anything from and I thought that was 97. We have a piece from that collection in the museum - it's a green wool jersey shirt trimmed with bone buttons and worn with leggings with a breech cloth panel. It's a great piece. I should send you some pics of what we have in the collection - perhaps you can tell me more! Big fan of your work btw.

Thanks Jonathan. I did have my collections at Holt Renfrew. RTW and Fur. As a designer. I loved it. I remember walking on Bloor Street and seeing my work displayed in the Front windows of Holt Renfrew. What, a Time in the life as a First Nation fashion designer. I was young.

As per my Career? It took me across the World, US, Europe, etc. If I had 10 bucks for every flight I took, I could buy a 21K embroidery machine.

Remember. I started with literally nothing.

I started on the Streets of Edmonton, I was homeless.

check out my FB page

D'Arcy Moses