Help with style name

Vintagiality

Vintagiality

VFG Treasurer
Hi all,

A couple of questions on this Nathan Strong dress.

1. I am leaning towards 50s but would love your opinion.
2. What is the name of this style dress or how would you describe the draping fabric in the back? I saw one described like bubble drape but that doesn't do it justice.
3. Would you say taffeta or faille for the fabric?
4. Is anyone familiar with this designer?

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Thank you
Victoria
 
Like Karin, I can't see the fabric well enough to help with identification but drapes like this are usually a softer material than taffeta or faille, which have a lot of body so are better for stiffened shapes.

It's a very low back so I'll go with early '60s but would expect less of an hourglass figure for this shape. Have you clipped it on the mannequin or is the shape accurate? I have a mid '60s dress coming up to the webshop soon that has a back like this, but the silhouette is more shift-like.
 
I agree with Melanie - Watteau back or Watteau sash/drape is the usual term. It was inspired by the sack-back gowns of the 18th century. It's a style I generally associate with the '60s plus the back is too low for '50s and too low to even wear a bra, so I'll stick with my early '60s dating.

The fabric looks too soft for taffeta, it's good for folding or pleating but not so much gathering and draping like this. It could be a type of silk weave, but not a stiff one like taffeta or faille. If you can show a close up and describe how it feels (soft and cool, or warm). You could also try a burn test.

As mentioned I would call it an hourglass shape as it emphasises the curves, or a fitted bodice, slightly flared skirt.
 
Thanks Victoria - I agree, it does look like faille!

I did a search and found a number of Nathan-Strong dresses on Etsy from the '50s and early '60s and one of the latter had the same label. They're beautiful and seem to be of very good quality.

I also found one on 1st Dibs that looked quite similar, with a lace bodice, wide straps and the same low back/gathered watteau panel, however they called it a "bubble drape" and it looks like it's sewn to the hem at the bottom to create that shape. I wonder if yours was originally likewise and it had become separated at some point? Which could explain why it hangs down longer than the hem, as additional fabric would be needed. When the style passed out of fashion the alteration could have updated it. It also has the same label.
 
Thank you so much for looking Nicole. Yes, I had seen that listing on 1st Dibs (and its price!) too and I was referring to it when I said I didn't like the "bubble drape" description :). I don't see any indication that there was any stitching in the back but it's definitely possible since the dresses are very similar. It is a beautiful dress and appears to be very high quality but the style seems somehow "dated" in the back. Hopefully someone will love it.

Strangely, there is very little about Nathan & Strong out there.

Best,
Victoria
 
"Bubble skirts" were a style that was introduced in the late '50s (and revived briefly in the '80s) where the outer skirt is gathered into the hem to create a bubble effect so it's likely the seller is describing a similar style. A gathered drape that falls freely like yours is a different style, and can also be called "fly away panel" when falling from the waist or shoulders.

I had another look at the 1st Dibs dress and it looks like instead of being sewn into the hem, it's folded over itself - so not quite a bubble perhaps, although the fabric gives it some weight.

Is yours folded over or hemmed as per normal?

By the way, I thought you were wondering what the silhouette was called but if you're after type of dress I'd say "little black cocktail dress".

Incidentally, I found this late '50s Nathan-Strong bubble skirted dress on the VFG blog. It was from Catseye Vintage.

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I agree the fabric looks like faille and that the dress is early- mid-1960's. I would also call the piece of fabric that hangs down in the back a Watteau panel. I don't think it was originally attached at the hem or that it was updated.

I think the dress would have been worn with a long line "merry widow" type bra with a very low back. It's very nice!

Linn
 
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