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  1. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    I believe this is a mid 40s jacket and I found out that these Diamond D buttons by William Drell are very collectible but I am curious about the style. It seems very unique to me but were these common with the "straps" going around from center back around to the side seam? I am calling it military style but is that right? What fabric is this?

    Thanks
    Victoria
    IMG_7637-cutout.jpg IMG_7638-cutout.jpg IMG_7639-cutout.jpg IMG_7640-cutout.jpg IMG_7641-cutout.jpg IMG_7642-cutout.jpg IMG_7643-cutout.jpg IMG_7644-cutout.jpg IMG_7645-cutout.jpg IMG_7650-cutout.jpg IMG_7650-cutoutA-crop.JPG IMG_7653-cutout.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  2. Ranch Queen Vintage

    Ranch Queen Vintage Administrator

    Wowza! That jacket is amazing! Excellent sleuthing on the buttons, too.
    I suppose the straps give it a somewhat military vibe, but really, I'd say more avant garde.
    No label? Looks like something Adrian might design.
     
    Vintagiality likes this.
  3. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    No label unfortunately and there are some discoloration spots which I am sooooo bummed about since it's otherwise in amazing condition
     
  4. amandainvermont

    amandainvermont VFG Member

    I agree with Marsha. "Military" might draw in some buyers, but it is quite avant garde - particularly for the era.
     
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  5. denisebrain

    denisebrain VFG Vice President Staff Member VFG Past President

    Amazing!! In the close ups I believe I see wool gabardine.
     
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  6. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    Thank you all. I know we don't do valuations here but how much do you think in general terms these discoloration spots take away from the jacket?
     
  7. Ranch Queen Vintage

    Ranch Queen Vintage Administrator

    While the placement of the discoloration is most unfortunate... :no: tailored jackets from this era are always incredibly popular, and I've sold many in less than perfect condition. You might even suggest over-dying it to lessen the flaw. That's what I'd do in a heartbeat if it were mine.
     
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  8. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    Thank you Marsha. I was not familiar with over-dying but it sounds like a great option!
     
    Ranch Queen Vintage likes this.
  9. Vinclothes

    Vinclothes Alumni +

    A well selected scarf worn around the neck and under the strap might draw attention away from the problem area. Or not.
    Marian
     
  10. Ranch Queen Vintage

    Ranch Queen Vintage Administrator

    I should add that this route is for a professional or experienced dyer and not something for an inexperienced dyer to undertake, as one would need to be familiar with fabric absorption and potential shrinkage of outer layer vs. lining, blocking, etc. A good professional dyer (I live in L.A., and there are many) would be the best bet in this case.
     
  11. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing VFG Member Staff Member VFG Past President

    Fabulous find! Makes you want to scream about those discolored spots!
     
  12. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix VFG Member

    That is a fabulous jacket. Could we see a close up of where the label was or might have been? And a photo of the lining (close up of that also if possible). Also, is the jacket's fabric a lighter weight or more standard weight fabric? It does remind me of several designers.

    Really nice , despite any flaws.
     
    Vintagiality likes this.
  13. Fabulous design. Too bad about the flaws and their unfortunate placement.

    Are they wear spots or stains? Or fading from old stains.
     
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  14. Racked Vintage

    Racked Vintage Alumni VFG Past President

    Agree with Maggie - gabardine - it's lovely.
     
  15. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

    This is an Adrian that I own. It supposedly belonged to Janet Gaynor. My jacket has bound buttonholes.
    I think Victoria's jacket might have been inspired by the Adrian look, but the buttonholes don't have welts; they are just faced holes.

    upload_2020-3-1_12-18-56.png
     
  16. laurenm

    laurenm Registered Guest

    So awesome! Buttons are underrated.
     
  17. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    The spots are from a few stains I tried to clean which discolored the fabric. :(
    Claire, I am not sure what welts are but here are some close ups I have of the button holes and the lining. I’ll take a picture of where the label may have been and post it shortly.
    B7517603-8665-4FC1-B8C9-293C92F6EEE7.jpeg 8CE3720B-3CA5-4984-AE84-D5277641A2F7.jpeg E739A3D4-7B77-4DCF-924C-C05083ED7F8B.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  18. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    And the label area...
    9E9D0370-E983-4E19-804E-47B24B36137F.jpeg
     
  19. claireshaeffer

    claireshaeffer VFG Member

    If you can enlarge my photo, the buttonholes have two strips of fabric inside the rectangle. On your jacket the opening is a faced hole.

    The lining is put in by hand and perhaps the shoulder seams on the jacket and lining. This is high quality. If you show more details of the lining seams, I can tell you about quality but not who made it.
     
  20. Vintagiality

    Vintagiality VFG Treasurer Staff Member

    Claire,

    Unfortunately I can’t enlarge your photo to see the button detail you are referring to. I really thought you were referring to this strip of fabric.
    EB1ACA6C-1F66-4E3E-8833-6BC93BA28EF9.png
    Here are a few more photos of the lining and stitching. I apologize they are not very good but there is no more natural light today.

    FAB4F45B-26AB-41EB-9392-76974CC73092.jpeg 77233ACB-87AC-4029-9D47-98AF7FE88D3C.jpeg 9EE264F4-E058-4A6A-AA56-6F04A4200DBB.jpeg 4BA32562-E9B0-41B3-94CE-F729E6503931.jpeg 09EC3AD8-3341-4D79-94A2-FE2B6C2EEC8F.jpeg 1A77A706-8654-4199-BFC8-8C38955A69CA.jpeg
    The other thing I forgot to mention is that there are metal discs in the bottom hem to weigh it down.

    Thank you for all your help everyone.

    Victoria
     

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