claireshaeffer
VFG Member
Must go to a birthday party but will write about Beene's tech. later. In the meantime, I have to find my cowgirl hat--yep, I look silly in it. C
Let's Play: Guess the Designer!
- Thread starter pastperfect2
- Start date
hipvintage
Alumni
Oh, what a fun game!! 
Unfortunately, I'm much better at "guess the wine" games.
Janine
Unfortunately, I'm much better at "guess the wine" games.
Janine
claireshaeffer
VFG Member
Cowgirl hat found, worn, and put away for another 5 years.
Now to Beene. The little narrow hem you described has several names: baby, chiffon, or machine-stitched hem. The first garment I remember seeing it on was a Ralph Lauren about 1973. It was a pleated, lightweight silk skirt. The narrow hem gave the skirt a lighter look that "floated" better than a 2" hem. Of course, it would be cheaper to make as well.
My Beenes have traditional techniques as well as some that are more interesting. One of my favorites is black 4-ply silk; it has two fronts. Under the black silk there is a chiffon front with a metallic design woven in it. The black skirt is open almost to the top of the thigh so you see just a hint of the chiffon when you walk. (There's a photo in Fabric Sewing Guide, 2nd Edition.
The edges are finished with metallic binding applied with topstitching; this is usual for Beene, but rare at this price point. The sleeves are two layers of the chiffon; they are perfectly aligned so the motifs are one on top of the other. The seam joining the sleeve and dress was stitched wrong sides together, then covered with a metallic strap over the seam. The strap seam is particularly nice because the wrong side of the dress has the usual seamline and no seam allowances. I'll have to look at the dress to describe the side seams.
The plaid quilted coat I have has sort of a white semi-circle at the neck-edge in the back. It has a strap seam where it joins the coat; and I think it may have a strap seam on the inside as well. The coat, like your jacket, could be worn wrong side out--except for the label.
Unfortunately, the strapless dress with the coat has "plastic" stays and was very uncomfortable to wear. Beene used these horrible stays I think on everything. Claire
Now to Beene. The little narrow hem you described has several names: baby, chiffon, or machine-stitched hem. The first garment I remember seeing it on was a Ralph Lauren about 1973. It was a pleated, lightweight silk skirt. The narrow hem gave the skirt a lighter look that "floated" better than a 2" hem. Of course, it would be cheaper to make as well.
My Beenes have traditional techniques as well as some that are more interesting. One of my favorites is black 4-ply silk; it has two fronts. Under the black silk there is a chiffon front with a metallic design woven in it. The black skirt is open almost to the top of the thigh so you see just a hint of the chiffon when you walk. (There's a photo in Fabric Sewing Guide, 2nd Edition.
The edges are finished with metallic binding applied with topstitching; this is usual for Beene, but rare at this price point. The sleeves are two layers of the chiffon; they are perfectly aligned so the motifs are one on top of the other. The seam joining the sleeve and dress was stitched wrong sides together, then covered with a metallic strap over the seam. The strap seam is particularly nice because the wrong side of the dress has the usual seamline and no seam allowances. I'll have to look at the dress to describe the side seams.
The plaid quilted coat I have has sort of a white semi-circle at the neck-edge in the back. It has a strap seam where it joins the coat; and I think it may have a strap seam on the inside as well. The coat, like your jacket, could be worn wrong side out--except for the label.
Unfortunately, the strapless dress with the coat has "plastic" stays and was very uncomfortable to wear. Beene used these horrible stays I think on everything. Claire