Nice 40's Dress - Any & all comments welcome

Nice 40\'s Dress - Any & all comments welcome

Hi -

I'd really love to discuss this great dress I have. Terrific styling and details - very evocative of the era, with that great wrapped belt and drape to the skirt.
While it's in nice, strong shape, it does have a few issues.<BR><BR><img src="http://members.aol.com/crew112/images/40s-blk-fr.jpg"><BR><BR>The original shoulder pads have been removed.
The hem has been turned up about 2" (not unhemmed and re-hemmed higher) . . .<BR><BR><img src="http://members.aol.com/crew112/images/40s-blk-waist.jpg"><BR><BR>The most disconcerting issue is that the hemitite bugle beads were originally attached by machine (???) I believe. The stitching on the inside of the fabric looks as though it were done by machine, in a chain stitch. (Like the pull-thread along the top of pet food bags. <I>Was</I> there such a machine, back at that time? It truly doesn't look like hand-worked stitching.)<BR><BR><img src="http://members.aol.com/crew112/images/40s-blk-fab.jpg"><BR><BR>This in itself, isn't a problem, but the thread is aging and has come loose along the edges of the neckline. Due to the chain-stitch arrangement, any pull on the loose threads/beads, travels along to the subsequent beads, causing stitch/bead loss.

If I were keeping this for my own wear, I would trace the "squiggle" pattern on the back of the bodice material, remove all the beads and re-bead it, myself, by hand, since it's so strong, with no other flaws or color loss.
But since I am not planning on keeping it, how "costly" do you think these issues are, in sale price?

Any/all feedback is extremely welcome.
TIA
C.

 

First of all the beading and draping is wonderful...this is two of my favorite features on 40s dresses. I also have not seen a lot with the centerfront draping this one has. They may be as common as the hip draped ones, but I haven't seen them.

This isn't a Dorothy O'Hara is it?

C, I really don't know about the machine beading? I've only had a couple of beaded 40s dresses and they were hand-applied beads.

hmmm....I don't have any idea what you should start this at.

What is the length with the hem as it is now? That may not
be an issue, depending on the height of the potential buyer.
And the missing shoulder pads I don't think are a biggie either. It's that beading!

Sue

 

Sue -

Couldn't tell you the manufacturer. No tags - not one. No trace of one.
Crepe with a nice heft to it.
It probably hit high-calf at one point, but now hits just below the knee-cap.
And - I forgot to ask - late 40's . . . or very early 50's??
C

 

I've found dresses like this one to be some of the easiest things to sell lately. Yes, they did have a machine for beading.

The current length makes me say 40s. I just love it.

Lizzie

 

Looks 40's to me and I don't think there is going to be a problem with selling this.

I love that draped belt!!

Is there any way to tighten up that beading without having to remove it all?

 

I am going out on a limb and say it 1946 to 1954 when the some fashions still had the 40s shoulders and draping, but with the longer hem length. Then it was shortened for the later 50s and the pads removed.

If you can replace the pads with old ones, I would. If you don't have old ones, don't worry about it.

On the beading - it could be machine, but hand stitched beads like this are done with a chainstitch from the back and professional beaders' work looks like machine. So it could be either.

What you can do to stabilize the loose ends: get a beading needle - these are really thin. If there are long pieces of thread, thread the needle with them and take them to the inside and knot them off. If not - very carefully hand sew the end beads, following the existing stitches in and out, working toward the existing bead lines so you aren't pulling on the beads and taking more off. Go back at least 10 beads or so.

Now the hem length - if you think it will leave a mark, leave it alone and just mention in your condition notes it's been turned up. If not - take that sucker down and press first from the wrong side. Use a press cloth if you need to press from the right side to keep the fabric from getting shiny. I have used white vinegar spritzed on some fibers to get rid of creases, but I haven't used that on crepe. I am concerned the mopisrure will shrink the fabric.
If you have it cleaned - be sure to stitch the beads first and go on and take the hem down. That way they can press the hem when it's clean. If it leaves a line, you can always whip it back up.

Hollis

 

All I can say Hollis is wow I am even more impressed with you!

 

Great tips Hollis.

Question...what is "mopisrure"?

Sue

 

I think it was a typo Sue moisture

 

Thanks!

Sue - If Hollis hits you, we'll all understand! :D

Hollis - Once again, your knowledge amazes me.
<I>it could be machine, but hand stitched beads like this are done with a chainstitch from the back and professional beaders' work looks like machine. So it could be either. </I>

I'll probably take your advice to stabilize it.
If I were keeping it, I would probably re-bead it completely, just for longevity's sake.
(A good project while watching TV in the evening.)
But as it is, stabilizing seems more appropos.

Thanks, ladies - one and all.
C.

 

Oh brother! Duh!

But....looking at my keyboard, I'm trying to figure out
how "moisture" can be typo'd that way! That is some
fancy typing! (sorry Hollis!)

Sue

 

It' s not nice to make fun of the keyboard challenged.


Hitting Sue with a virtual wet noodle <i> is </i> fun, though.

You should see my typing before I fix it...............It's like a secret code that only I know what it means.

Hollis;)

 

Hollis, I was sure it was the name of some unique fabric term.....you've fooled me before with the proper names of stuff - and here I was already to add it to my file of terminology!

 

I didn't have a clue how to fix it - but Hollis' suggestion makes sense. I love hearing how to fix things from those who are more experienced!

-Melanie

 

hee hee.

The only hard thing about beading is tha most of the old beads have very small holes. You really need a beading needle. And a needle threader because the eye of the needle is soooooo small.

With this type beading, it is so easy to pull off the chain stitch that you have to work from the loose end toward the firm. I wish I knew how to do that beading chain stitch - it looks really cool. I have seen film of ladies beading dresses by hand on large hoops - they work from th the back, holding the beads under the fabric, where they can't see them and working from the top with what looked like a crochet hook. It was fascinating.

But then, I am easly amused.

Hollis

 

Hollis -

You always know the most amazing things.
Too bad we can't photocopy your brain cells and add those to our resource list!
I always envy your knowledge of older styles & constructions techniques.

Now, as a sewing person, I'm wondering why they would use a chain stitch. As I said, if I were keeping it, I'd probably trace the squiggle pattern on the back of the fabric, remove all the beads and re-bead . . but I would use a running back-stitch.
Is there any advantage to the chain stitch - besides easy bead <I>removal?</I>:D
C.

 

Is a running back stitck where you would put the thread through the bead twice? I think I sew holes in seams that way. What is a chain stitch?

Deb

 

Deb -

Back stitch - thread goes through each bead once, but stitch doubles back behind fabric.
<img src="http://members.aol.com/dancingdresses/images/backstitch.gif"><BR>Chain stitch - notice how the stability of each loop depends on the subsequent loop being there. <BR><img src="http://members.aol.com/dancingdresses/images/chainstitch.gif"><BR>C

 

But how is a running back stitch any better? I mean, if you pull the thread, it's all gonna come out because it's all on the same thread...? Isn't it?

Deb