Questions about the fabric on this Dollyrockers frock

All a bit 70s Pride & Prejudice...



First of all, the selvage is just visible along the neckline, and it says: Schwartz Liebman Textiles - and possibly something else that is hidden by the stitching. Are the textile suppliers for Dollyrockers known at all? I'd just be interested where they were getting their fabric from...

Second, keyword ideas for the fabric pattern are *most* welcome - am I on course at all when I think it is imitating Empire-style prints?



And third, I can't work out whether I'm supposed to call this semi-sheer cotton (with visible 'holes' in the weave, if you know what I mean) voile or lawn. Any words of wisdom would be most welcome.

Many thanks to all in advance, Lin.

 

Hi Lin! (I've seen your lovely Varon - damn my boobs!!!! It'll never fit!!)

To me, that print looks more Rococo than Regency - I always think of pretty, sprigged muslin-type prints for Regency. But the cut is definitely Regency-inspired. Might it be a muslin-type fabric?

 

Hi Liz!

Yes, the Varon (Varon interlude ahead) - my boobs & hips too cruelly foil it's stylish cut 'n' line... Rather a shame it's been altered (only noticed well after I'd bought it). I only seem to be able to sell slightly abused Varons! The only perfect one I've found, I'm keeping :D , since it's a wonderfully witchy sequinned, see-through chiffon affair.

ANYWAY.

*Great* thoughts on the fabric - you're right, there's perhaps a little too much flamboyance in that print to be Bennett girls' attire (Regency - now why did that word just leave my brain when I was thinking about this yesterday?). So now I'm wavering between seeing it as 18th century Italian villa decoration or actually later 19th century soft-furnishings-dom (kind of the colours, I think). Muslin - could be, could be. What I really want is a fabric type sample book, like those haberdashery ones, so that I could feel and compare against something else!

I'm also wondering (peers outside at the rain) whether I should stash it for next spring. I bought it with half (well, a quarter of) a mind to keep it (thus paying more than usual...) but it is a tad tight... But I'm not sure I could get the right selling price now... Might give it one whirl on the block just in case.

Thanks for your input!
L

 

Schwartz Liebman Textiles were a division of Cranston Print Works (located in Cranston, Rhode Island, USA) and were a cotton house dress resource. They later developed sportswear and furnishings fabrics. Their main designers included Joe Bostany (who later became their President) and Oneita Parker. They did a lot of non-dress fabric (curtain/cushion/upholstery fabric) in the 1970s and every fabric design I've seen of theirs has been in a busy chintz pattern - absoloutely covered in lots of flowers or scenes like venitian boats, regency ladies, etc. I believe they currently still have premises on Fashion Avenue in New York.

I'd also class the fabric design as more Rococo than Regency. There is a god Rococo guide here (the rest of the site is wonderful too):
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/index.shtml
And the design seems to be a take off of late 1700s early 1800s styles so I guess that's either empire or regency. Possibly more Regency... see link:
http://www.songsmyth.com/costumerscompanion.html

As far as Dollyrocker is concerned, the array of different fabrics used is astounding so I'm sure they must have had several different suppliers. I have some incredibly course fabrics which have hand-painted designs on them, very fine silk, and some quite ordinary cotton. Sambo (the designer) was very much into emulating historical fashions in his Dollyrocker dresses, and seemed to gradually work further back in time as the range progressed. When it began it was very modern 1960s, then in the mid-60s he revived the 1930s look in a slightly more daring way (much more low cut), then in the late 60s it was Victorian clothing made into mini-dresses, and so on.

I'm afraid that's all the information I can supply as no matter how much I search for information on the Dollyrocker label I can never find references in fashion studies and always have to go back to reading the 1960s fashion magazines which are far more into telling you how "swinging" a dress is. *sigh*

love, moons and starrs,
Senti.*

 

WOW

I feel like I should copy that out, bind it and attach it (with lace ribbon of course) as a little archive leaflet to the dress. It's fabulous that you have so much information even on the print works!

Thanks also for the precision of your pattern references; it's too painfully clear that my estimates are based on fuzzy phases produced by my triple-marination in stately home visits over the years.

The Dollyrocker context, particularly Sambo's progressive archaicization (I don't know if that's in the dictionary...), is really interesting and gives me more perspective - you're right, the variety means one can just be stuck with a diffuse picture.

With the 60s fashion magazines, you're doing the best kind of research into the primary evidence. Maybe it's your destiny to write the considered survey! Or incite the V&A to do an exhibition with the added bonus of a tie-in social revolution background.

I would love to re-use some of this information in my listing (when I get around to it) if you don't mind? Thanks so much for enlightenment!
::humble with awe::
L

 

You are quite welcome to use any of the info you like. I'm just happy I could be of some help. So far I've been feeling like my fashion knowledge is very limited compared to the experts on here who know so much about so many eras, but you've hit one of my fave rave fashion topics, so this time I actually knew something, and I was quite shocked. LOL!

That dress is a lovely combination of lots of my favourite things - Dollyrocker which is one of my most-loved 60s labels, a design inspired by all the elegance of the Jane Austen era, a print that reminds me of the work of William Morris, and a fabric designed by a company that seems to have made the majority of the curtain fabric in my house. LOL!

love, moons and starrs,
Senti.*

 

...and about the V&A, I really do wish they would do a proper 60s cultural revolution exhibition because I bet their 1960s fashion archives are phenomenal, and they have access to so many sources that would be perfect.

And their Ossie Clark exhibition was so marvelous I could have lived there for weeks admiring it.

I think the 60s magazines are bad for me though in the long run... I keep forgetting which decade I'm in. After reading a few pages on what the Beatles are up to, going through all the fashion trends to try and learn a bit more, and then reading what the newest make-up style is I'm quite convinced it's the 60s... then I realise I need something from the shops, step outside of my 1960s house and get a real shock!

When I get old and senile, I am going to be *so* confusing to people.

love, moons and starrs,
Senti.*

 

Senti, that is wonderful information! All I found on Google for Schwartz Leibman was that it was an American company.

Lin, I don't think we have that label on the labels resource (hint!), I know we have Dollyrockers and Sambo, but not together.

Senti, I look through 50s catalogues and see some cool drapes, or a
great dress and think, gee, I'll have to order that....Bong! hits me that
this is a 50 yr old catalogue. Yes, it is a shock!

I lived the 60s (very young teen) and loved them - and the 70s....80s were abit of a trial :D

Sue

 

this time I actually knew something, and I was quite shocked. :D

Well, I'm so glad our interests tied up for this thread! Yes, I think somehow the print really works on this design - I think it's the fineness of the cotton - if it were any thicker, it'd be too heavy and earnestly retro. As it is, the sheerness makes it a bit naughty and gives it a kind of balloon lightness. It's got a couple of my favourite shades of aubergine and green in it, which is why I was momentarily in two minds about selling it (but being strict with myself).

I don't go in the V&A enough, although they do have a way of creating wonderful environments for their exhibitions - they'd do a stunning 'anthropological' 60s exhibition - which is kind of the way they've been going, what with Art Deco and all. I've got a friend who works there, but usually we get stuck in the bookshop/cafe/in front of the Ardebil carpet (or maybe it's been taken down now...) Don't worry about the 60s magazines - I spend a lot of time reading stuff that's 2500 years old and the sinister psychological damage is I'm sure creeping up on me.

Sue, I think Senti has already supplied the combo label (without a crease in the middle like mine!), but if you'd like to have 'examples' to add in a link, feel free to take this one!

Busy weekend, but hopefully I'll get back to listing on Monday or so..
Thanks everyone!
L