Seeking information on Thurn Paris New York label for a very special gown

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Label Q & A' started by BrookeNault, Aug 7, 2018.

  1. BrookeNault

    BrookeNault Registered Guest

    Hi all!
    I have a pretty amazing antique metallic gold floral lamé gown in my possession labeled 'Thurn Paris New York'. I found a handful of gowns that are listed in the met museum, one labeled "Thurn New York" which states "Thurn was a respected New York dressmaking firm during the Belle Époque which collaborated with French couturiers."

    Does anyone know any more information about the Thurn label which also included Paris? I found two Thurn Paris New York labels at the Met which were designed by Lanvin.

    The gown I have has a hidden under bodice with hook and eye closures and eye hook closures up the left hand side. I was given a date of early 1910s - i'm curious as this gown seems costume-like - reminds me a bit of the lavish stylings of Marie Antoinette. Any idea on what occasion a gown like this would have been worn / made for back then? Also, i did add tissue paper underneath the skirt folds - would this gown have had cage paniers added for fullness?

    Thanks much!
    Brooke
     

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  2. lkranieri

    lkranieri Trade Member

    I am sorry I don't have much time to dig further right now, but I found a few small things about Thurn, among which is a 1912 article that notes:
    'James B. Blaine, head designer for New York's Thurn, a retailer and importer of Paris fashion, declared that Paris was 'American made.' "

    and a quote from a book on NY fashion, the title of which I regret I forgot to copy:

    "...in December 1912 the head of the newly formed Society of American Fashions pointed out that many other American designers had been sewing Parisian labels into their American-made clothes to attract buyers, and Thurn, one of the most prominent import and custom-made American clothing houses, admitted it had done just that."

    I found classified ads from Thurn, from 1899, looking for seamstresses. One 1899 classified ad was from a seamstress looking for work and who noted "...years with Thurn, 5th av., as seamstress..." She did not say how many years she had been with them.
     
  3. BrookeNault

    BrookeNault Registered Guest

    Very interesting!
     
  4. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing Administrator Staff Member

  5. Rue_de_la_Paix

    Rue_de_la_Paix Trade Member

    That is stunning and a joy to see!

    I get a sense of mid to late 'Teens on this one. There was a 19th century revival in fashion at that time. But it is SO so very heavily influenced by those earlier styles that one has to wonder if this was indeed a costume made to be worn to a high end Fancy Dress Ball.

    Wow, what a beauty.
     
    BrookeNault likes this.

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