Sewing Doctor-backstitches

claireshaeffer

VFG Member
This was copied from Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide

"The strongest hand stitches, backstitches are used to sew and repair seams in hard-to-reach places, under-stitch some fabrics and couture designs, set zippers by hand, and complete garments when a machine is unavailable.

Working right to left, secure the thread. Take the stitch 1/8" to the right of the thread, bringing the needle out 1/4" away, to the left. Take the second stitch by inserting the needle at the end of the previous stitch. Make the stitches longer or shorter as desired."

There are 8 stitches/inch in the directions above. For a stronger seam, make the stitches closer together. The stitches on some Worth gowns were about 1/16".

Many bespoke tailors use this stitch for the shoulder and armscye seams.

The backstitch can be adapted for half backstitches, prick stitches, and pick stitches.

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