Vintage Bra Sizing

mingus107

mingus107

Registered Guest
I haven't done a ton of research on this yet, so I hope the answer isn't crazy obvious. I'm dying to own a true bullet bra, to be able to properly "fill out" a few of my dresses. I know that the modern sizes don't really correspond. Does anyone know of a conversion formula, so that I don't make a mistake? I normally wear a 32-34 DD and would prefer black. Is this looking for a needle in a haystack? Thanks in advance for any advice!
 
I don't think cup sizes A, B, C, D, DD have changed, but the DD may be an E now. I would look for a 32-34 DD or E bullet bras - buy one and see how you like it and go from there.

Also, there are numerous companies today making vintage styled bras. You might want to check with them. Also, getting fitted at a reputable bra shop would be a good place to start. Find a place that sells British bras - i find that to be the most accurate versus places that start out with a 32 or 34 band as their smallest. Women don't normally wear the correct size anyway. You'll know if you fall into this category and knowing your exact correct bra size will make it easy to buy a vintage bra and order one with confidence online. Women who buy older bras and complain they don't fit usually are not ordering the correct size, versus the sizing being different.
 
I find that vintage bras from the '30s to the '50s don't often have cup sizes: so they'll be sized as 32, 34, 36 inches - no good for bustier ladies, I'm afraid. Luckily bullet bras were made into the '60s where you do find cup sizes, so I recommend that you search on 34D (I don't think that they come bigger than that, but 34D is pretty big, I'm a DD and find that they fit me).

Alternatively, What Katie Did do nice repro bullet bras in a variety of sizes - note that there is no stretch so make sure you order the right size.

You can also get brand new bullet bras from Bullet Bras.

Nicole
 
There is no magic formula unfortunately- even for modern bras! I'm generally a 36F (my bust is 42" but my rib is 36") and find that fits me nicely in modern bras. I once came across an early 60's bullet bra in a 36F and the cups were huge on it!
Yesterday while photographing some stock, I noticed one of the bras ( very early 60's bullet) said 34EE so thought, "what the heck" and tried it on. It fit just like a modern 36F so guess what went in my drawer? :D

When I list my bras on C&C, since sizing is so particular to different brands, I measure the bust size range from the smallest hook setting (unstretched) to the largest hook setting (stretched) so people can see if their bust size falls within those numbers. When I say "bust size", I mean measuring around the fullest part of your bust with a measuring tape.

I also give the cup width so you can compare it with your breast width. LOL, I always need to look for a cup about 10"- 10 1/2" across, alot of the vintage bras out there are about 7"- 8" across in the cup.

Then I do the same with the rib measurement as I do with the bust.

I do often come across larger bust size bras, I've got a pile waiting to be listed on C&C but Nicole is right, they mostly went by bust sizes not cup sizes well into the 50's and then the wearer would have just stitched the bra to fit her own bust shape.

I find the What Katy Did bras satin Maitresse bullet bras come up a bit small so you may have to contact them to see what size would be suitable as there is no stretch in them whatsoever.

Lei
 
Hi!
Like Nicole and Lei have said, it is a tricky thing getting the size right- but they have given you excellent advise. With the bras I sell, most are the actual bust size, unlike modern band sizes. So a 38B in a vintage bra often literally means a 38 bust size, but a much smaller band size. I also recommend a the use of a bra extender- that can be purchased at most haberdashery stores, to size up your vintage bra to fit your band size a little more. If you are not familiar with these- the are a strip of elastic with hooks and eyes that hooks onto the existing fittings of your vintage bra to give you a wider band./underbust width.Like Lei said- always ask the seller the width of the cup if it's not stated in their listing. I have also had customers buy the correct bust size and then take in the band width to better suit them, if you are handy with a needle and thread that could work too! cheers Gayle.
 
Just to add that, if you are happy with repro, I can utterly recommend What Katie Did bullet bras, I have two and am about to buy another. With the right fit I find them very comfortable. I love them!

I wear 32DD and theirs fits me well. I remember reading that if you are between two band sizes to try larger, so the 34 in your case, although I can't see that advice on their site now. They do have a teeny amount of stretch in the band, and the straps, just not much compared to modern bras. The cups are non-stretch.

They also have an ebay outlet (uk ebay) where they sell all their end of lines at a discount, I've got several bargains there, and they have some pink lace ones in 34DD right now, though a plain black one is unlikely to ever be an end-of-line.

Ruth
 
Thanks you, ladies! As Nicole stated, the bra that I was looking at had no cup size and I was baffled! It probably wouldn't have fit, but it sure was pretty! As much as I would love a vintage bra, I think I might take everyones advice a order from What Katie Did. I don't want to take any chances. I knew I could trust you ladies to lead me in the right direction! Thanks, girls!

Amy
 
Another piece of advice about What Katie Did bras (that also used to be on their website, not sure if it still is): you might need to buy a cup-size lower than you're used to in modern fashion bras.

I think this is partly because bullet bras are "full" cups, not halves or push-ups, so you gotta fill the whole thing up. There's probably also a bit of "vanity sizing" in modern fashion bras too, I think.

After determining my size in What Katie Did bras (34B), I actually used that to start buying vintage and the sizing has been pretty consistent. Though occasionally the band will be too tight, in which case an extender like sewingmachinegirl mentions, is a good idea.

Jen
 
laughingmagpie said:
Another piece of advice about What Katie Did bras (that also used to be on their website, not sure if it still is): you might need to buy a cup-size lower than you're used to in modern fashion bras.

I think this is partly because bullet bras are "full" cups, not halves or push-ups, so you gotta fill the whole thing up. There's probably also a bit of "vanity sizing" in modern fashion bras too, I think.

After determining my size in What Katie Did bras (34B), I actually used that to start buying vintage and the sizing has been pretty consistent. Though occasionally the band will be too tight, in which case an extender like sewingmachinegirl mentions, is a good idea.

Jen
Click to expand...
Wife is a 36C/D. What Katie Did was to recommend a 38B for their styles. Go figure.
 
crinolinegirl said:
There is no magic formula unfortunately- even for modern bras! I'm generally a 36F (my bust is 42" but my rib is 36") and find that fits me nicely in modern bras. I once came across an early 60's bullet bra in a 36F and the cups were huge on it!
Yesterday while photographing some stock, I noticed one of the bras ( very early 60's bullet) said 34EE so thought, "what the heck" and tried it on. It fit just like a modern 36F so guess what went in my drawer? :D

When I list my bras on C&C, since sizing is so particular to different brands, I measure the bust size range from the smallest hook setting (unstretched) to the largest hook setting (stretched) so people can see if their bust size falls within those numbers. When I say "bust size", I mean measuring around the fullest part of your bust with a measuring tape.

I also give the cup width so you can compare it with your breast width. LOL, I always need to look for a cup about 10"- 10 1/2" across, alot of the vintage bras out there are about 7"- 8" across in the cup.

Then I do the same with the rib measurement as I do with the bust.

I do often come across larger bust size bras, I've got a pile waiting to be listed on C&C but Nicole is right, they mostly went by bust sizes not cup sizes well into the 50's and then the wearer would have just stitched the bra to fit her own bust shape.

I find the What Katy Did bras satin Maitresse bullet bras come up a bit small so you may have to contact them to see what size would be suitable as there is no stretch in them whatsoever.

So what is the difference between cup size and bust size? I thought one used the bust size to calculate the cup size. And why doesn't the rib cage size (band size) correspond with the numbers - eg. 34-36-38?

Lei
Click to expand...
 
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