Vintage Fabric Guide? Adele Simpson?

foofoogal

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Is there a good site with vintage fabrics?
I found a suit late 1950s by Adele Simpson. The fabric is amazing and I will eventually put photos here. I found a vintage ad about her and metallic fabrics and this is a brocade sort of but I have never seen this fabric. Did she use particular ones?
Thanks for any help. Sandy
It is a magenta colored suit.
 
It is in Houston and I am in Arkansas. Will have it soon. Not sure if I can part with it though. I am a collector first and foremost and am rounding up some vintage clothing for investment.
As a general dealer I see them like all the other things. Choice glass, pottery etc.
You know the people on pickers that are like "um, not sure if I am ready to part with this."
This is me believe me. Ask my honey. I only sell because I cannot keep everything.
Some things I will not budge on and if I do list it it will probably be one of those things. I am sure all the vintage clothing dealers have some like that.
I can sew and took classes in school but do not remember fabric real well.
I fell in love with fabrics a few years back when I worked around some ladies from India. Exquisite fabrics. I would dream about them at night. This 3 piece made me realize in America we have also had gorgeous fabric.
It is magenta or fushia and has like embossed crysanthemums? I am currently looking at her jewelry or brooches and did not realize how quite rare they are so am pondering similar to use on the suit.
Thank you Mary.
 
I, too, love Indian fabrics, anything from the super light weight cottons to their luxurious silks.

when you are back with it and can add photos, we can take a look and go from there. :)
 
Finally. Sorry.
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I think Simpsons husband designed the fabrics.... I have a great clutch coat with fabulous fabric.... I remember reading something about her husband......
 
I am the guilty party that is STILL working on the VFG fabric resource! The thing that will always be challenging is that many fabrics are not easily defined. Yours definitely looks quilted to me, but not a matelassé. The surface looks like it is in a satin weave. The fiber content is an important element that can't be told by photos, and definitely makes a difference to the wearer. Have you tried doing a thread burn test? This page is still my go-to for burn tests: http://www.ditzyprints.com/dpburnchart.html
 
I rely on Julie Parker's Fabric Reference Series: All About Silk, 1991; All About Wool, 1996; All about Cotton,1998. A Fabric Dictionary and Swatch Book. It helps so much to actually feel the material. Amazon has all 3 right now. I don't remember that mine were so pricey, but they are well worth it.

People have such trouble distinguishing fiber content from weave. Maggie, you have a daunting task just in making that clarification. I recently had several exchanges with someone interested in a silk Ralph Lauren suit. He was convinced that silk was an artificial fabric. I finally sent him reference on how silk comes from cocoons, but of course he did not buy.
 
Thank you all so much. This suit is very comfortable and has a bit of a stretch to it even. I had read about her husband and the unique fabrics and why I asked here. It is quilted and silky or satiny.
Again thanks. Sandy
 
I recently had several exchanges with someone interested in a silk Ralph Lauren suit. He was convinced that silk was an artificial fabric.

I'm very late to this thread, but am just now seeing it, and need to rant & rave!

It can be very frustrating to deal with the lack of knowledge amongst both buyers and sellers about fabrics. I don't mean amongst the people here, because we all ask when we're not sure of something. Nobody can ever know everything there is to know about fabric, but there are some basics everybody who deals in apparel should know. But in general, the lack of understanding between fiber and weave has led to big "issues" in the vintage garment arena. As Marian pointed out, people today don't even seem to know what silk is (or that it's valued higher than a "silky polyester").

There's a dealer at the antique co-op I'm in who recently started stocking a lot of vintage clothing. He has acetate scarves (maker's labeled as such) and has "silk scarf" on his price tags. He also has a 70s' woven polyester blouse (no content label, but clearly poly) labeled as a "silk" blouse, and an obviously fake fur labeled and priced as genuine fur. I guess because the label says "clean by fur method only," he figures it's fur. Arrggghh....

Anyway, I brought these things to the attention of one of the co-op managers. I think it reflects very poorly on our co-op if dealers are selling things they have absolutely NO knowledge of, or won't take the time to learn the least little thing about. We're not all experts on everything we sell, but someone with a booth loaded with clothing should know the difference between silk and cheap polyester (while some of today's better polys can be hard to tell from real silk just by feel, it's easy with most 70s' polys--even the high-end ones--to tell). Anyway, I about fell over when the manager said to me, "Well, silk has become a generic term these days; people call anything that's silky silk." Oh, really? I said to her, "Not in my world, and not in a million years. Silk is silk, and to call anything that's not silk, silk, is a blatant misrepresentation." Then I went on to show her the faux fur coat from Montgomery Ward's, priced at $365. I said, "That's not real fur." She asked me how I knew, and I pointed out, oh, maybe a zillion things that made me know it wasn't. But, of course, nothing ever got done about these things, and they're still for sale with fraudulent tags on them.

But this is part of why true vintage in hard-to-find styles and exquisite fabrics is being down-valued in the market--lack of knowledge, and much of it is being promulgated by sellers of vintage themselves. Who, unlike the wonderful folks here, don't bother to learn about what they're selling! (I cringe every time I see a 1960s' dress or suit on Etsy being marketed as a "1940s" piece--how DOES this happen?
 
I finally sent him reference on how silk comes from cocoons, but of course he did not buy.
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This is funny. I think I learned about silk and cocoons in about the 2nd. grade. Do they not teach anything now?
 
I actually had an experience just the other day, I was at a thrift, and noticed a 1960s maxi organdy cotton dress that had been cut to make a top not even a mini dress.
When I turned the dress around I noticed a hang tag from the zipper. It had one of the better known Montreal vintage shops and it said raw silk!

There was no way this item looked remotely like raw silk, I was very surprised. I did not buy it.
 
I rely on Julie Parker's Fabric Reference Series: All About Silk, 1991; All About Wool, 1996; All about Cotton,1998. A Fabric Dictionary and Swatch Book. It helps so much to actually feel the material.

I also have these books and find them to be so helpful to be able to touch the fabric. Two other manuals I have that are also great at identifying fabric and weave are Mary Humphries Fabric Glossary with the swatches and J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science Swatch Kit. Burn tests I have found to be difficult (especially with blends) but I continue to test this way too.
 
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