What is this fabric treatment called, please?

Leisa, I think the pattern might be imprinted during a heat process. You don't say how "modern" it is, but it reminds me of the crinkly no-iron fabrics that were around in the '90s and early '00s.

Nicole
 
I found a couple of fabric stores online that just refer to it as "crinkle." (that is, if I'm seeing your photo correctly!:)
 
Embossed is the best word. Are you sure it's silk and not a synthetic (poly or nylon in particular). Nicole is right about the heat process. To my knowledge, permanent embossing requires a synthetic fabric.

You can emboss natural fibers but it does not hold up when subjected to moisture or heat. The pattern just flattens right out. That goes for rayons and acetates too, which are man made but from plant based cellulose matrial

Melody.
 
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