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YSL Liberation/Scandel Collection

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion - Ask Questions Get Answers' started by Debbie W, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. Debbie W

    Debbie W Registered Guest

    Hi, I need help identifying this dress. I believe the fabric pattern matches other Abraham patterns from the 71 YSL Liberation collection. Any info would be appreciated.
     

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  2. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing VFG Member Staff Member VFG Past President

    Can you please show the label.

    I have found similar items and the collection was called "la collection de scandale". The pattern for others I found that look similar were designed by Andre Barrieu.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2016
  3. Debbie W

    Debbie W Registered Guest

    There is no label. The pattern seams to match this one exactly.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Midge

    Midge Super Moderator Staff Member

    @Debbie W I posted that photo from the book. This is the book ("Soie Pirate - The Fabric Designs of Abraham Ltd.") from the exhibition on Abraham fabrics that the Swiss National Museum held a few years ago. And you are correct, it was the 1971 "scandal" collection that featured these antique Greek motifs - to be honest, I can't remember if there was a long-sleeved dress. The one in my book photo is actually pleated. I saw the exhibition about it in Paris. The print was done in a few different colorways and used on different dresses. The print was called "Fanion" and the actual silk was printed by Mitloedi - a very long-standing Swiss textile company. The book unfortunately doesn't mention the designer of the print. I guess YSL might have had a print like that custom-made for his collection, but some of the Abraham silks were actually used by several design houses, as the book proves. So I can't say if this fabric was only used by YSL or not.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
  5. Great information. Yes, sadly, the print alone does not guarantee authenticity and associate it with a particular designer.

    I worked for a fashion designer in '93 who would have custom-made fabrics woven and printed in Italy, so you would think there was a guarantee the dress was his if the fabric was, but every season he had factory sales to sell off the left over fabric and anyone could buy a piece and make it up into anything they wanted.

    So Debbie W, considering that your dress has no labels, I recommend looking at the construction to see if it's of home or professional standard, and consistent with '71 techniques. The style could be '71 but it's very plain - does it have a centre back nylon zipper? Are the openings faced? How are the seams and hem sewn? Does it have a lining? Etc.

    If you're not of the answer, post pics of these areas and we can help.
     

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