Zelinka Matlick 1940s or 1950s? women's navy Juilliard virgin wool coat

Pinkcoke

Pinkcoke

Alumni
We don't have this Zelinka Matlick label in our resource so I'm looking for opinions on whether this is more 1940s or 1950s. It could well be cusper.... the sleeves are raglan cut, full length and ever so slightly A-line shaped to the cuff. It is a 3/4 circle skirt and 40" from nape to hem. Bust approx 42", waist 32" - it has been let out at the waist by approximately 2". Lining is a navy rayon faille that has faded to purple. The back is cut with full length back panels like suiting is made.
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Has it been shortened? It looks late 40's early 50's to me. But the proportions aren't really right for either unless it was shortened.
Marian
 
I have the exact same reaction and question as Marian. It looks too short for the period. Are you sure it's a coat and not a dress that has been shortened?
 
Not that I can tell no - it has a 2" hem with a rayon hem tape machine stitched on one side and herringbone stitched by hand on the other to the outer fabric, open bottom with thread cords attaching the lining. I mean the enlargement at the waist is really well done so it's possible they did the hem to the original standard too but I can't see any evidence of the length being changed.
 
There was a brief style for this length of suit jacket, circa 1948. It was a Victorian revival. Jo Ccopeland (for Patullo) did several suits with close to this this length, and a few other designers as well. It was indeed a take off on the redingote style. As a matter of fact, I have an ad from 1948 for a Julliard suit in this style, which I will find and post. The font on the Julliard label in that ad matches your label exactly. So it is a possibility.

But somehow I am leaning more to the short woman theory. But.....

I have an ad for a Mangone suit from 1948 with a jacket even longer!
 
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Thanks! Those ads both have the full length sleeves and the Juilliard even has the wider cuff I was talking about.
 
Redingote.

I think the rounded shoulders put this one into the '50s although it does have a lot of late '40s features.

What's the waist to hem length? It sounds like the original hem but it is rather short for either time period.
 
Waist to hem is 24" Nicole. It is too large for my mannequin which doesn't help with proportions.
I also neglected to mention it has internal shoulder pads. Not very big ones, just for that shaping.
 
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