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I have started a "new career" since I don't plan to write another sewing book--maybe a revision. And I have lots of garments to use for research. About a month ago, I posted 3 YouTubes. They are quite different and I think you will enjoy them. One focuses on an 1880 Worth ball gown at the...

Sorry to join so late; I had covid when this first appeared. The construction is very high end: edges overcast and zip handsewn. The stitches on Seta label appear to be by a different hand. The zip is sewn with a running stitch; a homesewer would have used a prick stitch.

I talked with a dressmaker in NY recently. She said her clients were buying at auction and having them altered instead of having new garments made.

I can only provide some general information. The serger or overlock machine entered the home sewing market in the early 1970s, but it had been used in ready-to-wear for several decades. The paper interfacing is probably something like pellon-a non-woven material. The trim is lovely. The...

Maggie, Some garments after Chanel have buttons without holes and/or flaps without pockets. The buttonholes on many pockets are too short to open easily. Ill do some more but I have a 70s Dior suit I want to next. Right now I'm vacationing in the UK: London until Thurs--then off to Brighton...

As usual, this is a wonderful and very informative article. Thank you, Maggie

I really appreciate the support and knowledge which my friends in VFG have shared with, other members, and the public. This is the second of my videos: If you are having a problem connecting, try "Search" in You Tube. Use any of the following: Claire Shaeffer, Chanel 1971, Worth, McQueen...

I have finally finished 3 little videos for YouTube. Here is the link to the Worth gown at MCNY:

If the hem is machine made, it's a fake.

Karin, Bemberg is still around it's rayon and still popular for linings. The process for making is different from other rayons.

Pearls have a gritty feel when you "bite" them. Plastic and other beads are smooth.

I have a white asuit and a black dress. I'll try to find photos. The shawl is relatively simple. the dress is attractive and I have considered wearing it, but it needs to be taken up; I really hate altering my vintage pieces. When I was researching the Fabric Sewing Guide, I interviewed...

Yes, you would look good in that outfit. I have a Donna Karan Barbie. I bought it with the hope that my grand-daughter would be interested. She wasn't. Barbie is still in her box.

This is for Karin and anyone else who collects Barbie.

One of my Facebook friends bought a suit with a Jack Clarke label. Another posted this article about Jack Clarke. https://www.irishtimes.com/news/health/the-richard-and-alan-shop-1.174948?fbclid=IwAR1YEyU-JPXBIB3MSL26U_ZRVe-2WM0HxMgGWkIL8e9Hu0-CAvySgZHs5_8

I found this photo on the VFG instagram page, but it doesn't say who posted it or who owns the photo. This is a Balmain dress I examined in the V&A Collection. The midriff section of the dark flowers is made by cutting out the dark pink flowers on the fabric and applique' them together. As I...

Are the pleats permanent? If so the fabric is probably nylon or polyester and yes, it is hand washable. If it is silk, no, send it to the dry-cleaner.

The Unique (invisible) zippers were available to home-sewers in the 60s, but manufacturers were slow to use them probably because they were much more expensive.

I have an idea. It may not be a good idea but give it some thought. Use your cell phone to photo your inventory when you leave at the end of the day. Then use it again when you return next. If you have jewelry inventory, this is easier than large items; but, in addition to helping you keep up...

Yes, you have probably lost your 3-months rent. Document as much as you can and leave. Just in case they want to hold you to the contract. It's an expensive lesson, but what besides the 2 rings are missing?

Even a roll of labels for some designers was available in Vietnam and probably other Asian countries.

I think it might be an amateur dressmaker's design. Dior lining fabric was available over the counter.

I'm on the same page as Jonathan. The one thing it can tell you if you have others is which designs are older. When I wrote the person I know at Chanel, she offered to register the suits which I asked about, particularly if I were interested in loaning them for exhibitions. At YSL, I know...

Mary Jane, I wonder if they used the fabric names instead of numbers to identify styles. Carved Ottoman might be one of two or several coats. C

That's a beautiful coat. I've never seen the term "carved." This is a YSL jacket that I've written about several times because of the collar. Usually the collar is cut on the same grain as the front. On this jacket, the collar is cut so that the ribs (crossgrain) are parallel to the edge.

This was petersham I bought in London about 10 yrs. ago. I have some older; I'll look for it and unravel some. C

Broadcloth is also a ribbed fabric. When I unravelled grograin recently, I found a gauze or leno weave. The weft yarns are heavier than the warp, but the leno weave would contribute the distinctive round ribs. Look at the line drawings below. They are not the same.

I'm still playing with petersham. I found a number sizing which I don't understand. The first reference did not have the inch measurements--just the numbers. #40-3”, #9 is 1 ½”, #3 is 5/8” , #16 is 2” If you have some petersham ribbon, I would appreciate your checking the weave on it. When I...

Ultrasuede wasn't the easiest fabric to sew, but I developed some techniques to get a nice result. I have at least one Ultrasuede skirt which I made on my giveaway or sell rack. Perhaps the next yard sale.

Do you remember Sibonne? it was an underlining material manufactured by Armo. A colleague is doing some research on a skirt lined with Sibonne and is looking for the fiber content. She also collects vintage patterns; I told her she needs to join. Thx for your help.