Is this just an early dry cleaning label?

C

cltvintagefinders

Registered Guest
Well, it's my guess. I'm not sure who else "Barry Wright" would be. Do you have any information? I assume this dress is from the 30's? I also learned a new term when trying to research it. The term is "coffin pleats". Oh, creepy. Thanks in advance for any input!
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I would just call that ruching, but you do see "coffin pleats" used on ebay etc, especially with ruched polyester '80s party dresses. Technically, it's not pleating though - the fabric is gathered and secured through stitching.

Your lovely dress looks like a costume to me, and that could explain the name on the dry cleaning tag - Barry Wright might be the person who wore it, or owned it.

Can you tell us more about the construction, especially supply interior photos? Whilst it shows some aspects of '30s design, the construction looks like a '50s-'60s costume to me. Costumiers like to use hooks and eyes rather than zippers, as they don't break and let you down. The bias style facing on the top of the bodice interior is not what I'd expect in a '30s dress. It could also be '40s.

Is the skirt bias cut? Is there any lining? On my monitor it looks like cotton velvet - is that the case?
 
Upon taking a closure look, it does look more like secured stitch for the Rouching. Thanks for that added explanation!

I wish I had more information for you, other than me finding this at my local Goodwill store. The skirt issue not lined, and is cut on the bias. The top is lined and has boning inside. I did notice a huge seam allowance in the skirt. I know from fashion design classes that more than an inch seam allowance indicates "High-end" fashion. Lol! You know, it could be cotton velvet, but I assume cotton would be more dense and more if a pile. My assumption was leaning more toward rayon.

Thanks for the many eye openers!
 
You can do a burn test to determine if it's cotton or rayon and knowing the composition will help with dating because they were both used more in some eras than others.

Wide seam allowance in modern clothing indicates high end. In vintage (pre-'70s) it can mean couture, professional dress-maker made, home sewn, costumier made. Basically, until recently it was standard that most clothes would be altered and updated if styles changed, so seam allowances were built in to facilitate that. It's one of the many good things we've lost, and helps with dating. That said, people who use old fashioned techniques will still add seam allowances, eg, I always do unless all the seams are overlocked (serged). I'm a costumer by trade so it makes sense to me.
 
Btw, I thought of doing a burn test, but I was afraid of the dress being engulfed in flames, because of the age. Besides, while I was steaming it, I smelled a hint of mothballs. Eww!
 
cltvintagefinders said:
Yes, we have gotten away from so many simple qualities. I'm a seamstress by trade, who teaches Fashion Design classes, part time. I'm impressed with your wealth of knowledge! You seem very passionate. I like that.
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Welcome to the VFG! It's great to have non-seller professionals here too, especially teachers. You're quite right: I'm very devoted to my topic - where are you based? I'm wondering if your time zone is close to mine. I'm in Melbourne Australia.

Re: burn test, see if there's a small bit of the seam allowance you can snip off. I don't recommending setting fire to your gown! Mothballs are horrible - if you air it out - lots - you should be able to get rid of them. Good news that it's not a strong smell. They're vile.
 
I'm in North Carolina. True Vintage girl at heart! It's 11pm here. I'm settling down at this point in the day. Truthfully, I should be sound asleep. But, I love talking about fashion! I'll try the burn test tomorrow. Have a great night!
 
I didn't know those were called coffin pleats either!
My first thought was that was an costume owner's label. I find most often that black pen marked labels are wardrobe costume labels - it also appears to have been stapled on. A sign they don't have time to go sewing on every label as an individual owner might do. Dry cleaner's labels tend to be more commercial looking, usually printed in more recent times.

Dating this one will be difficult, as mentioned there are many eras that featured this style, the latest I have seen is late 70's/early 80's featuring this slinky outline and very full skirt.
 
The label that stapled inside is rather prehistoric. When I held the dress up and watch the movement, and consider all the style design lines, I came to the conclusion that the dress had to be from 30's or 40's. The way that the bodice is styled, it's high in the front and lower in the back. So there is a complete sense of modesty. It also seems that the elements in the dress are pointing toward the conclusion that it belong to a costumer. For example, the hook & eyes and also the stapled name label inside.
 
That a dry-cleaners label - I see those heavy metal staples a lot in older clothing in my area. I just had a dress with extremely similar lines and constrcution, and I ended up at late 30s, early 40s.
 
I agree that it's a dry cleaner's tag, and I've seen that style in garments from the '30s to the '60s, although it's more prevalent in older items.

The style could be late '30s to early '50s, more likely at the early end of that range but the construction with the bias tape along the bodice looks more '50s. Cotton velvet puts it more towards '40s-'50s and a rayon or silk velvet puts it at the early end again.

Can you tell what fabric the lining is made of?
 
another opinion to add to the mix.

i wouldn't call this coffin pleating (or draping). have you ever seen the old satin interiors of coffins? they're basically swagged.
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this is this is coffin draping ^

i've seen oodles of old dry cleaners tags with those thick and wide staples, but never with a person's name written on them. they've always been printed, with a numbering system particular to the individual cleaners, for easy retrieval.

it does look late 30s to early 40s to me as well. the bodice is styled too early for 50s, and with all that fabric in the skirt, it says pre-wwii.
 
Burn test complete. My assumption of it being a rayon velvet is correct. There was an ashy residue and the flame did not carry itself for long. And, the smell was not pleasant.

The image attached is to show a close up of the weave of the fabric, if it's served for any further verification.
 

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Catbooks1940s said:
another opinion to add to the mix.

i wouldn't call this coffin pleating (or draping). have you ever seen the old satin interiors of coffins? they're basically swagged.View attachment 35695

this is this is coffin draping ^

i've seen oodles of old dry cleaners tags with those thick and wide staples, but never with a person's name written on them. they've always been printed, with a numbering system particular to the individual cleaners, for easy retrieval.

it does look late 30s to early 40s to me as well. the bodice is styled too early for 50s, and with all that fabric in the skirt, it says pre-wwii.
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Thank you for posting this beautiful example! Each time I see images of garments like this, it makes me want to create and sew!
 
Circa Vintage said:
I agree that it's a dry cleaner's tag, and I've seen that style in garments from the '30s to the '60s, although it's more prevalent in older items.

The style could be late '30s to early '50s, more likely at the early end of that range but the construction with the bias tape along the bodice looks more '50s. Cotton velvet puts it more towards '40s-'50s and a rayon or silk velvet puts it at the early end again.

Can you tell what fabric the lining is made of?
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Sure.
Circa Vintage said:
I agree that it's a dry cleaner's tag, and I've seen that style in garments from the '30s to the '60s, although it's more prevalent in older items.

The style could be late '30s to early '50s, more likely at the early end of that range but the construction with the bias tape along the bodice looks more '50s. Cotton velvet puts it more towards '40s-'50s and a rayon or silk velvet puts it at the early end again.

Can you tell what fabric the lining is made of?
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Sure thing. The lining looks like a faille. I'm going to assume it's silk. Here's a pic..
 

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