Need help reading this Chanel jacket label

Hello, experts!

Can anyone help me read the label of this vintage Chanel jacket?
The picture doesn't show it, but the style/model says 20726.
The ink has faded and I'm not sure if a letter came before the number.

Judging from the the style of the label, would you say this jacket is from the 1980's? Thanks!

 

Welcome to the forums!

Can you please show us the jacket - I agree that the label could be '80s, or it could be '90s. Labels don't usually change as often as fashions so more pics will help.

This thread suggests that the cleaning symbols are post '85.

 

Thanks for your reply! This is the jacket. It came with a skirt:

 

I'm by no means a sewing expert, but here's what else I can tell about this jacket.

(1) It is very well made - perhaps even better than my new Chanel jackets.

(2) Like newer jackets, it is made of of several 'parts' or 'panels' and corresponding silk lining panels, presumably to allow for easier tailoring.

(3) The buttons are unmarked, and there is no chain on the hem, however. I have new Chanel cardigans with no chains on the hem, though, so I thought maybe some of the older ones also don't have these chains.Is this true?

Thanks for any input you may have - I really appreciate it. I'm new to vintage clothing, but so far, I am loving it! The pieces I have started collecting have been very well made and very unique.

 

More pictures:

 

Lovely suit - I'm not a Chanel expert so I can't comment on the construction except to say that it's probably more to produce a particular shape, rather than ease of tailoring. Ease of tailoring is unlikely to be high on the Chanel list of qualities.

Thank you for the extra pics, I think it's from the early '90s. It looks like the hem may have been taken up too.

 

My expertise is couture not rtw, but here are some thoughts.

The key to the date is under the care label on the Collection line. Can you hold the care label up and make a photo of the Chanel data? A photo of the inside of the front might be helpful.

I don't think the length was changed and it's quite possible that the chain was removed for cleaning. Look carefully to see if there are any needle holes on the lining near the hemline.

Nicole, I would think 80s only because it looks more Chanel-like and softer than later Lagerfeld designs, but area is construction not style.

 

Hi Claire,
I don't have a camera right now, but under the care label, it says D-TK-9064.

 

And yes, I see needle holes near the hemline! wow!

 

Can you take a photo with your cell phone?

 

here you go thanks!

 

Is this the back of the care label or the label beneath it? The latter is what we need.

 

Oh, Claire :( I did something horrible. I washed the jacket with some fabric softener this morning and the markings on the label that says collection, color, fabric, etc. are now almost completely faded. Only the handwritten parts are still visible. I want to cry, I really do.

I do not know if there was anything written on the back. If there was, it must have faded together with the rest of the text.

So I guess I have ruined my first 'vintage' Chanel (if you can even call it a vintage). This is depressing. I am traumatized.

 

About the missing chain:



The picture above actually shows the needle holes near the hemline.

1. Should I bother replacing the chain?
2. Where do you think I can buy a suitable replacement? I am in Japan, but I guess I can order online.

Thanks!

 

Ann, I'm sorry you washed the jacket - tailored items should be dry cleaned, not laundered and that's what the care symbols are trying to tell you too!

I don't want you to feel worse, as I've washed jackets too and that's why I have a hard and fast rule about tailoring. Non-tailored jackets can be washed of course.

I agree with Claire that the suit might be late '80s.

 

This is what's left after the tragedy:





It's just that I have always simply washed my newer Chanel jackets in a low spin and short cycle. I put them inside a garment bag and then put them in the machine, and that has always worked fine. I thought it might work for this jacket, too.

Oh well, lesson learned!

 

I thought I would also post pictures of how the buttons were sewed. I'm not sure this is noteworthy, but here you go:





As you can see, the buttons seem to be 'anchored' (?) by a smaller button under. I'm not sure what this is type of technique is called. I'm not even sure if the buttons were replaced.

Nicole and Claire - thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it.

For now I will enjoy the jacket, chainless and all It's really nice to wear.

 

Hi again ladies,

I had some time this afternoon to take some more pictures. I thought these details might be noteworthy.

This shows the lining and the needle holes.



I also noticed how well-made the trims are. They seem to be twisted (?) yarn. Sorry - I have no idea how to describe them in sewing terms.





There is still some discoloration on the sleeves. I am afraid to clean it now (after the tragedy of the faded label).

 

Bad girl! Please don't wash any of your Chanels. My assistant is pressing a silk crepe blouse that a previous owner washed. I was just sick when I saw the blouse. Originally, it was part of a suit in a museum collection which I had studied so when the suit went to ebay I bid on it. The skirt had been altered and the blouse washed and the second blouse had been lost. Even so, the jacket is lovely and I can wear it.

Now that we've fussed at you, we'll move on. Hopefully, you don't have a lot of money invested in the jacket. Even so, you have learned a lot about care and Chanel.

The indentations on the lining are not needle holes. They are handsewn stitches to hold the lining in place so it won't drop below the hem of the jacket. They are small backstitches and this is called understitching.

The buttons--I don't think they're original. The inside buttons are called stay buttons. I've never seen them on a Chanel jacket. They are rarely used today except on leather jackets and garments which will be treated roughly--not with reference like a Chanel.

I don't know what your plans for the Chanel are, but there is a market. It is a lovely jacket and can be used by a teacher when discussing proper care or when describing Chanel techniques. For example the inside of the sleeve vent--the opening-- is hand finished. The trim is probably a piping set in between the garment fabric and the facing/lining.

If you are going to sell it, press it as well as possible, and be honest with potential buyers.
Good wishes, Claire

 

Hi Claire,
I don't sell clothes. I just like to wear them. This goes really well with dark jeans I hope it's okay that I linger in this forum even though I'm not in the business of selling vintage fashion. I love looking at other people's 'Rag Brag.'

The first time I saw the jacket, I thought the indentations on the lining were small stitches, too, but they're actually holes. My camera just isn't very good. In person, you can actually see the punctures.

Thanks for all your help! This has been very enlightening.