Seeking information on Thurn Paris New York label for a very special gown

DaisyandStella

DaisyandStella

VFG Member
Hi all!
I have a pretty amazing antique metallic gold floral lamé gown in my possession labeled 'Thurn Paris New York'. I found a handful of gowns that are listed in the met museum, one labeled "Thurn New York" which states "Thurn was a respected New York dressmaking firm during the Belle Époque which collaborated with French couturiers."

Does anyone know any more information about the Thurn label which also included Paris? I found two Thurn Paris New York labels at the Met which were designed by Lanvin.

The gown I have has a hidden under bodice with hook and eye closures and eye hook closures up the left hand side. I was given a date of early 1910s - i'm curious as this gown seems costume-like - reminds me a bit of the lavish stylings of Marie Antoinette. Any idea on what occasion a gown like this would have been worn / made for back then? Also, i did add tissue paper underneath the skirt folds - would this gown have had cage paniers added for fullness?

Thanks much!
Brooke
 

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I am sorry I don't have much time to dig further right now, but I found a few small things about Thurn, among which is a 1912 article that notes:
'James B. Blaine, head designer for New York's Thurn, a retailer and importer of Paris fashion, declared that Paris was 'American made.' "

and a quote from a book on NY fashion, the title of which I regret I forgot to copy:

"...in December 1912 the head of the newly formed Society of American Fashions pointed out that many other American designers had been sewing Parisian labels into their American-made clothes to attract buyers, and Thurn, one of the most prominent import and custom-made American clothing houses, admitted it had done just that."

I found classified ads from Thurn, from 1899, looking for seamstresses. One 1899 classified ad was from a seamstress looking for work and who noted "...years with Thurn, 5th av., as seamstress..." She did not say how many years she had been with them.
 
lkranieri said:
I am sorry I don't have much time to dig further right now, but I found a few small things about Thurn, among which is a 1912 article that notes:
'James B. Blaine, head designer for New York's Thurn, a retailer and importer of Paris fashion, declared that Paris was 'American made.' "

and a quote from a book on NY fashion, the title of which I regret I forgot to copy:

"...in December 1912 the head of the newly formed Society of American Fashions pointed out that many other American designers had been sewing Parisian labels into their American-made clothes to attract buyers, and Thurn, one of the most prominent import and custom-made American clothing houses, admitted it had done just that."

I found classified ads from Thurn, from 1899, looking for seamstresses. One 1899 classified ad was from a seamstress looking for work and who noted "...years with Thurn, 5th av., as seamstress..." She did not say how many years she had been with them.
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Very interesting!
 
That is stunning and a joy to see!

I get a sense of mid to late 'Teens on this one. There was a 19th century revival in fashion at that time. But it is SO so very heavily influenced by those earlier styles that one has to wonder if this was indeed a costume made to be worn to a high end Fancy Dress Ball.

Wow, what a beauty.
 
Greetings!! I am late to the party, Caroline Otillie Albertine Thurn Hague, my Great Grandmother was also known as La Doyen de la couture, owner of Thurn Fashions, named for the Princely House of Thurn und Taxis located @ 15 East 52nd. I have quite a bit of information. You can look on my Pinterest site if you like for multiple pics and I will include a couple of screenshots for you. The storefront is still there, I visited a couple of years ago…. No longer a dress shop.
My email is [email protected], Stacy
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Hi Brooke,

It is beautiful, gorgeous and whoever had this made and wore it would have looked fantastic.

I know nothing about Thurn.

It is imo a costume ball costume, must have been some party and possibly for the night.

I understand the MA reference but such costumes were spread, to show wealth, to show off,, your costume, while would have cost, is folded, gathered.

I have looked at your photos many times, my feeling is it was not worn with paniers or rolls, it would have lifted the costume to high.

The costume design suggest early 19th century but other influences, eras are at play.

I would dearly love to know the shoes the lady chose to wear, I hope they were comfortable, I can't imagine the wearer sitting down, her poor feet.

Beautifully made by a House, a skillful seamstress.

Lovely, gorgeous.
 
Stacy Hague said:
Caroline Otillie Albertine Thurn Hague, my Great Grandmother was also known as La Doyen de la couture, owner of Thurn Fashions, named for the Princely House of Thurn und Taxis located @ 15 East 52nd. I have quite a bit of information. You can look on my Pinterest site if you like for multiple pics
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That’s so fantastic Stacy. Do you happen to have photos of the actual label. The OP didn’t include one. We would love it if you could share the history of the House, when it started, any background on your grandparents, how long it was in existence etc
 
Stacy Hague said:
Greetings!! I am late to the party, Caroline Otillie Albertine Thurn Hague, my Great Grandmother was also known as La Doyen de la couture, owner of Thurn Fashions, named for the Princely House of Thurn und Taxis located @ 15 East 52nd. I have quite a bit of information. You can look on my Pinterest site if you like for multiple pics and I will include a couple of screenshots for you. The storefront is still there, I visited a couple of years ago…. No longer a dress shop.
My email is [email protected], StacyView attachment 143083View attachment 143085View attachment 143083View attachment 143085
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This is amazing! Thank you so much for sharing this. I'll definitely be checking out your Pinterest site. Did your Great Grandmother design as well?
 
Vintagiality said:
That’s so fantastic Stacy. Do you happen to have photos of the actual label. The OP didn’t include one. We would love it if you could share the history of the House, when it started, any background on your grandparents, how long it was in existence etc
Click to expand...
I can also include a pic of the label. Let me track it down quick.
 
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