Tailor made wool woman's suit, is this 40s?

retro ruth

retro ruth

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Tailor made wool woman\'s suit, is this 40s?

Hi everyone

I'd like to check my dating on this herringbone wool suit.

The skirt is a very slight A-line with pleats at the front, a deep ribbon hem, and fastens with press-studs and hooks-and-eyes.

Lightly padded shoulders, the padding extends slightly into the top of the sleeve.

The buttons appear to be bakelite. Lined in a silky fabric, seems like rayon but I haven't tested.

It has embroidered triangles at the pleats and pockets, which I assume are for adding strength to the stress point, is there a term for these?

No labels, very well-made, I'm assuming it's tailor made.

My thinking is around the 40s, but the the lack of a zip and the shoulder padding into the sleeve is making me wonder if it could even be late 30s.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Ruth

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Decorative tacks

These are called decorative reinforcement tacks - either arrowhead or crow's foot.
Yours are the latter. Embroidery instructions sometimes show how to make them. They are also shown on p. 396 of The Vogue Sewing Book, 1973

The suit appears to be early 1940's.

Marian
http://www.vintagevanitiesclothing.com/
 
Thanks for the info so far, decorative reinforcement tacks is great to know.

It is a lovely suit, it oozes quality. Of course you may ask measurements, it's fairly small, at least the skirt is:

Jacket
Bust: 39"
Waist: 32"
Length: 27"

Skirt:
Waist: 26.5" (this has been let out an inch or so by moving the fastenings)
Hips: 39"
Length: 28"
 
Are the snaps and hooks/eyes marked at all? This suit was made by someone who was either trained during the Edwardian period or trained as a couturier. Are the snaps marked OPTI or something like that? I think its mid 30s.
 
HMMM, no that's not a maker I am familiar with - I was hoping for PRYM or OPTI. Probably an English company I am not familiar with and isn't around anymore.
 
Oops, my mistake, I had a hunch and looked again, and realised they say NB, not ND.

They are Newey Brothers fasteners - I knew I'd seen those two stars somewhere before! Newey Brothers are British, may even still be around, and have been making snaps since 1914. I actually have some still-on-the-card vintage Newey Snap Fasteners in my sewing box, which have the same markings, so these are definitely the same brand.

http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/wiki/Newey_Brothers

Don't know if that helps with anything!
 
I can see why Jonathan thinks it's mid-'30's and I can see why others think it's '40's. I can see late '40's in the shoulders and nipped waist. The construction with the snaps and hooks and eyes and lack of a zipper certainly point to the mid-late '30's - or wartime restrictions. But, since it is probably British made it would most likely have been made before wartime restrictions due to the long length of the skirt and the width at the bottom. I've thumbed through all sorts of books, including Jonathan's '40's book and I'm stumped. I can see Joan Crawford C. 1935 or Greta Garbo and I can also see post WWII. Ruth would you show us the shoulder pads? Not that I am in any way an expert - just curious!!

It's a gorgeous suit.

Linn
 
The snap placket and interior grosgrain waist stay in a skirt are older construction techniques that are not likely to be seen after the war. This is very similar to a 1938-39 skirt I had. Waist stays continue to be used in dresses, but not so much in skirts. The skirt is indeed too long and full to be wartime. The jacket isn't structured enough for wartime in the shoulders, and not really waisted enough for New Look.
So I'd go with mid to late 1930s

Hollis
 
Thanks Linn,

I would show them if I could, but the padding is under the lining - it's by feel I'm saying they go slightly into the sleeve. The padding is small and discreet, not huge power shoulders by any means, and more at the back of the shoulder than the front.

The buttons look pre-WWII to me, FWIW.

Hmm, anyone else care to weigh in?!
 
Many thanks Hollis, (our posts crossed)

I've just discovered another detail, as I was looking over for clues - the grosgrain waist stay has 'boning' - vertical, presumably metal, strips sewn in at intervals all along the waist - I've never seen that before!
 
that's a fabulous suit, and in amazing condition for it's age - I'm going with mid to late '30s too. It has the soft and structured lines that were popular then. Wish it were my size! Someone's going to love that.

Nicole
 
Thanks so much everyone, I'm now convinced of mid-to-late 30s, and really excited about that! I'm so glad I checked. Plus all these terms you've given will help (I'd never have come up with grosgrain waist stay, for instance!)

It is in amazing condition - there is just an issue on the waist where some raw edges are showing because the binding tape has worn away - a fairly easy fix I think, but I thought I'd leave it to the buyer. Apart from that it's pretty much perfect.

I wish it were my size too!

Ruth
 
It's a stunning suit! I just have to remember: I do not need a wool suit!!!! I do not need a wool suit!!!! I do not need a wool suit!!!!

Linn
 
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