Arnold Scaasi 2-pc set - Authentic?

queen0ftheang3ls

queen0ftheang3ls

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Hi everyone!
{insert obligatory "New Member/First Post!" platitudes}
Ok, I'm going to go ahead and jump right in, now that that's over with. ;)
Recently, I picked up a 2 piece set (blouse, skirt w/tie belt) with an Arnold Scaasi label in. Thanks to this link, I can tell that it ought to be from the late 60s, maybe early 70s. However, I have some questions:
First: The only label on the entire garment is in the bodice. Nothing on the skirt. Does that raise a question about authenticity?
Second: I am by no means a Scaasi expert. But since I acquired this garment, I've been searching extensively to find anything that looks similar. A lot of the Scaasi pieces that come up on eBay, etc., are Scaasi Boutique pieces from the 80s - so obviously those will be of a different style. But I haven't found anything from the 60s or 70s that wasn't some kind of elaborate cocktail dress or ball gown - not too surprising, considering that was really Scaasi's forte. But, again - is that a red flag for authenticity?
Here are some pictures to help clear things up:
[img=182x375]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227124207_o.jpg[/img][img=157x375]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227122701_o.jpg[/img]
[img=228x375]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227122853_o.jpg[/img][img=223x375]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227122785_o.jpg[/img]
[img=243x324]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227122663_o.jpg[/img][img=175x233]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/1/2/9/2/1/webimg/227122622_o.jpg[/img]
I have more detail pictures, and much larger sizes, if it would help anyone.

Some general notes about the garment: the bodice is done in (presumably silk) chiffon, with a black matte satin sleeveless underlay. The sleeves are gathered into small peaks at the top of the shoulder, and there's a nude reinforcement underneath. The bodice closes with a plactic zip at center back, which extends below the hem of the top - I wondered about this at first, but it really makes the flimsy material easier to zip up. As far as I can tell, it's intentional.
The skirt is plush velvet. It has a zipper (plastic) at center back, and hook and eye closures on the waistband. There are two pockets in the side seams, and the skirt is lined. There is a stretch lace border on the backside of the hem that covers the stitching.

So, can anyone help me with this lovely set? Do you think it's authentic? If it is, would it have been ready-to-wear? Am I correct in thinking it's late 60s/early 70s?
I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!!!
 
Yes, it's authentic if that's the orig. label. It's couture. The zipper is long so you can step into it. Stuff like this is in my Couture Sewing book. Claire
 
Hmm, looked at your description again. Stretch lace on hem is not good. This is a home-sew thing--not Scaasi. I wrote an article for Threads Magazine in the early 90s about Scassi. I'm not sure how you can locate it. Claire
 
Thanks for the responses!

Claire, in response to the lace on the hem - I'm going to snap a quick shot of it for you to look at. I'm wondering now if either the skirt was heavily modified by a home-sewer, or if maybe it's just the bodice that's Scaasi, with the appliques being added later.

I'll post the pics as soon as I resize them!
 
Pictures, as promised:

This is, obv, the hem of the skirt. You can see where it's been taken in about an inch along the back center seam. The lace has been attached by machine along the straight edge (the stitches are turned under, and don't show on the outside of the garment). Along the scalloped edge, it's been hand tacked to the black underlining fabric only. It looks like a well-done alteration, but an alteration nonetheless. You can also see where the center back seam was taken in on the lining (an additional layer, not just the flat-lined organza attached to the back of the velvet).
Also, I misspoke in my first post. The lace has no stretch to it. Probably makes no difference, but I thought I'd clarify.


This is the waistband. I figured I'd go ahead and show it, because I think it supports the theory that some intrepid home seamstress did alter the garment herself. The grosgrain ribbon is hand-tacked to the lining along the bottom edge. You can't see it in the picture, but the lining is also hand-stitched to stay clear of the zipper. This would make sense, since the zipper would have to be re-set and the waistband reworked if the alteration was along the CB seam.

Does this help at all? Also, I'll try to hunt down your article on Scaasi - he seems like such an interesting man, and a brilliant designer!
 
I always understood that Scaasi produced lines for high end retailers like Saks, Bergdorf's, Neiman Marcus, etc. So it wasn't run of the mill RTW he did but high end boutique clothes that had couture features, like Halston, Beene, Blass -- that level of quality but clothes that were still RTW. I would have guessed early-mid 70s on the dress - more 1974ish
 
Waist finish is couture. Skirt may have been lengthened--strange that it's only at the back. Look at the skirt carefully to see if there is an old hemline.

Scassi had a workroom in New York where he made some couture--not a whole lot. Customers included Barbara Bush and Brook Astor, mostly the NY set. It was traditional couture construction but not very imaginative. He frequently relied on unusual decorative fabrics.

Claire
 
Well spotted! I hadn't noticed it before, but there is definitely an old pressed crease along the hem, about 3 or 4 inches above the current hem. It shows distinctly on the organza underlining, but hardly at all on the velvet. Really, I didn't even notice it until you pointed out that the hem might be dropped.
Whoever wanted this skirt longer got all the length they possibly could out of it!

So, in your opinion (and sorry if I'm being obtuse), do you think this is a genuine Scaasi? It certainly fits the "unusual decorative fabrics" category!
And assuming the back seam/skirt length were altered after it left the workroom, would that affect the value of the garment? (Of course, that's assuming it has any value of note in the first place.)

And again, I really do appreciate everyone's responses and help. I've been collecting vintage for the fun of it for quite some time, but as far as I can tell, this is the first potentially-couture designer garment I've found. I just love it - I feel like a detective, poring over the seams and stitches!
 
Yes, I think it's a couture Scassi with alterations. Even so, he really didn't have that many customers so it's relatively rare.

I'll try to scan the article tomorrow and photo bucket it. That will stress my skills. C
 
do you think this jacket is from the same time frame? no other labels besides the designer label.

scaasi_jack.jpg
 
I really like that floral 2-pc dress, and I think it's genuine Scaasi couture. I have a Scaasi couture dress from the 70s--late-ish, I think, with the same label, and it has a dimensional floral motif--the flowers are ribbons that aren't stitched down--they're amazing. As Claire says, his styles weren't particularly imaginative, but he apparently excelled in the ways he used fabrics and embellishments, such as the flowers on yours and mine. (At least early on--I have an 80's Boutique cocktail dress and while the fabric is quality and the lines very nice, the styling is pretty blah when compared to the earlier things.)

Is the jacket a Scaasi label as well? I can't see "from here." I suspect that he's not a designer that people would go to great pains to find a label and stitch it into something to make a fake Scaasi (not that he's not collectible and a great designer, but if someone was going to go to that trouble, I imagine they'd pick a more well-known, higher-status designer).

Both items very cute!
 
Originally posted by claireshaeffer
I'll try to scan the article tomorrow and photo bucket it. That will stress my skills. C
Click to expand...
That would be awesome! If not, maybe my local library will have back issues of Threads and I can hunt it down.

Originally posted by secondlooks
don't mean to hi-jack :)....all the Scaasi I have had have been earlier. This one has the same label as yours.
Click to expand...
Hey, no worries! We can all share the Scaasi love here. The fabric on your jacket is so pretty!
 
Originally posted by vintagebaubles
I have a Scaasi couture dress from the 70s--late-ish, I think, with the same label, and it has a dimensional floral motif--the flowers are ribbons that aren't stitched down--they're amazing.
Click to expand...

Do you have any pictures? I'd love to see it; it sounds really cool.
 
Queen, I agree with Jonathan with the '74ish date, printed velvets were very popular around then, heck, even I had a few! (I was only nine).

I think your skirt was originally floor length and someone shortened it when maxis went out of style (maybe in the '80s when hems were above the knee), and then someone else has taken it back down, as far as they can.

Nicole
 
Here's my contribution to the Scaasi collection on this thread! The mix of fabrics (both are silk organza, but the skirt is smooth and the bodice is flocked and slightly textured) and the dimensional flowers makes this otherwise ordinary design special, IMHO. When properly prepared, the ribbon flower "petals" will stand out slightly from the dress. I was told this dress was from the 70s, but I've had some cocktail suits from the 80s that have that off-the-shoulder-points stiffened caped-collar thingy. But the flowered skirt looks really 70s.... An unusual piece!

scaasisilkfront.jpg


scaasisilkflower.jpg


scaasisilkbodiceswatch.jpg


scaasisilklabel.jpg
 
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