identifying and dating asian embroidered robe

Discussion in 'PUBLIC Vintage Fashion Q & A' started by Aimee, Sep 12, 2019 at 11:03 AM.

  1. Aimee

    Aimee Registered Guest

    hello looking to ID & date this garment.

    there are multiple crests on the robe, a dragon & blue bird on the front. there is a crest in the center of the chest of what I believe is a crane, which is repeated on both shoulders and three in triangular formation on the back.

    any help would be much appreciated!
    IMG_1858.JPG IMG_1865.JPG IMG_1861.JPG IMG_1859.JPG
    IMG_1860.JPG IMG_1869.JPG IMG_1862.JPG IMG_1864.JPG IMG_1863.JPG IMG_1865.JPG IMG_1866.JPG IMG_1867.JPG IMG_1869.JPG IMG_1868.JPG
     
  2. Jonathan

    Jonathan Trade Member

    Not an expert but I am learning more about Chinese embroidery... I believe this is intended for Chinese use, not something made for the export market. The red colour suggests it's a wedding garment, and the aniline dyes used suggest a 20th century date to me. The cranes represent longevity, and the other bird is a phoenix which represenst beauty.
     
    Aimee likes this.
  3. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing Administrator Staff Member

  4. Linn

    Linn Trade Member

    I am not an expert, either. I think it is a top, not a robe and that it may have been worn with red trousers. It doesn't look very large in your photos, and the sleeves seem short so I think it was made for a woman. It is possibly part of what we might call a pajama set - not meant to be slept in! I am not sure how to date it but I agree that it is lovely. I do have some books on Chinese clothing and will try to find something similar.
     
    Aimee likes this.
  5. themerchantsofvintage

    themerchantsofvintage Administrator Staff Member

  6. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing Administrator Staff Member

  7. Aimee

    Aimee Registered Guest

    Thanks so much, Jonathan! That's a great help appreciate it as always : )
     
  8. Aimee

    Aimee Registered Guest

    Thanks so much! Sincerely appreciate it : )
     
  9. poppysvintageclothing

    poppysvintageclothing Administrator Staff Member

  10. Aimee

    Aimee Registered Guest

    Very beautiful! I can definitely see it being worn with that :wub:
     
  11. Marzilli_Vintage

    Marzilli_Vintage Trade Member

    I think this is pretty late, maybe mid-century, though the eight roundels are a classic Manchu form used almost exclusively on women's semi-formal robes from the middle of the 18th Century on. The undulations on the hemline and sleeve-ends represent water waves, the roundish shapes with thorny branches in front of the dragons are supposed to be flaming pearls and it looks like there are stylized bats or moths in the roundel borders. It's a little hard to tell because the embroidery flosses are loose and the embroidery is not very crisp. There are metallic-wrapped threads couched around the motifs as borders. The toggle closures also look pretty modern. The length isn't unusual, just not seen much because the more impressive long dragon robes and such are what capture the imagination and are more important historically, culturally and monetarily. The skirts, or paired aprons, were usually worn under a 3/4-length coat to conceal trousers. It's interesting to always remember the equestrian history of this clothing for context.
     
  12. Jonathan

    Jonathan Trade Member

    Good point - the poorer quality embroidery is commensurate with a skirt we have in the collection that was purchased in China in 1961
     
    Marzilli_Vintage likes this.
  13. Aimee

    Aimee Registered Guest

    Thank you all for your help! Sincerely appreciate it!
     

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