identifying and dating asian embroidered robe

Aimee

Aimee

Registered Guest
hello looking to ID & date this garment.

there are multiple crests on the robe, a dragon & blue bird on the front. there is a crest in the center of the chest of what I believe is a crane, which is repeated on both shoulders and three in triangular formation on the back.

any help would be much appreciated!
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Not an expert but I am learning more about Chinese embroidery... I believe this is intended for Chinese use, not something made for the export market. The red colour suggests it's a wedding garment, and the aniline dyes used suggest a 20th century date to me. The cranes represent longevity, and the other bird is a phoenix which represenst beauty.
 
I am not an expert, either. I think it is a top, not a robe and that it may have been worn with red trousers. It doesn't look very large in your photos, and the sleeves seem short so I think it was made for a woman. It is possibly part of what we might call a pajama set - not meant to be slept in! I am not sure how to date it but I agree that it is lovely. I do have some books on Chinese clothing and will try to find something similar.
 
Jonathan said:
Not an expert but I am learning more about Chinese embroidery... I believe this is intended for Chinese use, not something made for the export market. The red colour suggests it's a wedding garment, and the aniline dyes used suggest a 20th century date to me. The cranes represent longevity, and the other bird is a phoenix which represenst beauty.
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Thanks so much, Jonathan! That's a great help appreciate it as always : )
 
poppysvintageclothing said:
That is a beauty! The shape is also a little more unusual as it is cut quite short. It definitely looks like an older piece.
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Linn said:
I am not an expert, either. I think it is a top, not a robe and that it may have been worn with red trousers. It doesn't look very large in your photos, and the sleeves seem short so I think it was made for a woman. It is possibly part of what we might call a pajama set - not meant to be slept in! I am not sure how to date it but I agree that it is lovely. I do have some books on Chinese clothing and will try to find something similar.
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themerchantsofvintage said:
@Marzilli_Vintage may be able to help.
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Thanks so much! Sincerely appreciate it : )
 
I think this is pretty late, maybe mid-century, though the eight roundels are a classic Manchu form used almost exclusively on women's semi-formal robes from the middle of the 18th Century on. The undulations on the hemline and sleeve-ends represent water waves, the roundish shapes with thorny branches in front of the dragons are supposed to be flaming pearls and it looks like there are stylized bats or moths in the roundel borders. It's a little hard to tell because the embroidery flosses are loose and the embroidery is not very crisp. There are metallic-wrapped threads couched around the motifs as borders. The toggle closures also look pretty modern. The length isn't unusual, just not seen much because the more impressive long dragon robes and such are what capture the imagination and are more important historically, culturally and monetarily. The skirts, or paired aprons, were usually worn under a 3/4-length coat to conceal trousers. It's interesting to always remember the equestrian history of this clothing for context.
 
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